Hello H-T, this is my first post even though I have been searching on here for years with no username. I am also a member on CB7Tuner.

So I just swapped a JDM H22 Euro R into my CB7. My car obviously is originally an OBD1 setup but I have kept all the Euro R components original which is an OBD2B setup (stock injectors, stock distributor, & P0F ECU that came with the swap). The swap was ordered from HMO. With the setup I am using a Boomslang Obd1 to Obd2b ECU jumper harness as well as the Rywire distributor jumper harness. I also have deleted the resistor box that originally came on the car but I have stripped the 5 wires going to the box & connected them together to bypass the resistor box. Before swapping the Euro R in I did a full timing belt manual tensioner swap, new timing belt, new balancer belt, & water pump. I changed the plugs & spark plugs. I wired up the knock sensor & Vtec as well. At this point I do not have any Check Engine Lights.

My issue is that when I start the car it does not want to hold an idle. So, the only way it stays running is if I keep my foot on the gas. It also seems like it is running very lean, to the point where the header was almost red hot. I thought that maybe my timing was wrong so I went back to do the TB again to make sure but all my timing marks are good. I am somewhat second guessing the cams timing because they line up but it looks like it could maybe be off by a half tooth? But I checked all my marks, even at the window on the trans for the flywheel lines up.

Could being a tiny bit off at the cams cause my timing to retard to the point where it would not hold an idle?

Another point I thought was maybe the map sensor is not doing it's job. I first tried to just use the map sensor that is in the black emissions box on the fire wall & it didn't change anything. I then correctly wired up the map sensor that is onto the throttle body on the Euro but it still did not change anything. Actually when I had the throttle body map hooked up, with me giving throttle then unplugging the map sensor there was no difference in idle but the CEL came on.
But, I have no CELs normally & I read that sometimes a bad map will not throw a CEL.

Also, I read that a bad knock sensor may retard the timing & not throw a CEL.

Help please! I have been search every forum but I just cannot figure this out.

 

Well I figured out what my issue was..the H22 Euro-R PCD (not P0F sorry) ECU would not work AT ALL. I am not sure why but I have read other threads about people trying to run the stock PCD ECU & they did not have any luck either. My solution was to convert my setup from obd2 to obd1. I was waiting for a USDM P13 H22 ECU in the mail but, for ***** & giggles I installed a bone stock P28 ECU & it started right up. At this point I could tell my issue was with the Euro R's stock ECU. So I installed a TD-60 OBD1 1995 Honda Prelude VTEC H22 Distributor, 345cc 1995 Honda Prelude VTEC Injectors, & the base USDM P13 H22 ECU. After the installation she fired right up. But, still with running the P13 ECU it was running really rich so, I of course had to purchase Hondata. I got Hondata installed in a P28. I found a good basemap from the Hondata Forum & uploaded it to the ECU. After some tuning I finally got the Euro R running really good!

Moral of the story: Go with Hondata if you want to properly run the Euro-R H22A.

 

make a video of the cams and the crank at tdc and how its idling

also is the cat also red ? if yes, it could be clogged