1999 Honda CRV Auto Transmission. Transmission began to slip going into higher gears, then stopped working in all gears incl R. After let it sit approx min, start it back up and R and lower gears fine but slips in higher gears and stops working again. Am on 2nd time of drain 3 quarts replace 3 with Honda fluid (it has had other tran fluid prev) and problem actually seems to be getting worse and check engine light came on with this time. Could it be as minor as the Solenoids/keep doing fluid change or am I looking at needing a new trans?

 

I'd just be curious as to the 'other oil'?
Small passages could be clogged up, maybe. Once you knocked all that stuff loose, you were inforit.

Will Honda or somebody do a Transmission Flush for you? I'd start there.

Also? How many miles?

 

183,000 miles. The other transmission fluid is non-Honda brands used by jiffy lube/grease monkey type shop who did transmission drain and replace over the years.
If my drain and replace doesn't work after 2 more times I'll take it to transmission shop. Unfortunately our local Honda dealer is very expensive and likes to recommend repairs/replacements not needed.
The plug magnet did have a lot of very fine metal filings on it when I did the 1st drain n replace, but no more than what I've seen on online videos about the same thing where drain and replace worked.

 

183K Miles? Quite a distance. I might actually be worn out?
IF shop used non-compliant oil, like Mercon instead of Dexron or whatever Honda called for, a flush might help.
And those I mention also come in 3 or 4 or 5 'flavors' each, too.
If I need ATF, I bring my LAWYER with me to help read the labels.

Did the 'old' oil pour out cleanly or come out in 'lumps' or discolored?

 

The old fluid was definitely discolored, a very dark reddish brown. No lumps and though slightly thicker than Honda ATF it flowed very freely. The only debris so far has been the small filings that were on the plug bolt magnet, and they were a very fine powder. I did have the oil pan gasket changed just before the problem began, is ther anything in that same area that could have been damaged or impacted? Solenoids in the area of the oil pan?

 

Well, had to replace the transmission, clutch debris is clogging internal filter. So local transmission shop found a used one w 93000 miles guaranteed for a year for approx $2000 fully installed so did that. Also they ID'd a bad U-joint so now looking for a drive shaft, seen some deals online as cheap as $170 (1A Auto), (Honda charges $900!) but will most likely go with a Dorman for $360 but going to talk to my mechanic 1st.

 

Minor point, verging on picking a nit, but NO U-Joints in driveline. All will be CV Joints. As long as the boot is intact, they should last an AWFUL long time.
Even the High Power Porsche use 'em and they'll easily transfer 500hp or more without problems.
There are some technical reasons for CV being better than U-Joint, but don't worry about that part of it.
CV means Constant Velocity, while a U-Joint has 'surges' at higher angles.

I replaced the boots on my '73 Super Beetle and it was a World Class Mess. The last time I had a busted driveshaft boot, I used an exchange / rebuilt axel for a reasonable amount of
money and a FRACTION of the mess. That would have been on the wife's Hyundai automatic.