Hello all,

Before I open up the engine in my daily driver, I was wondering if anybody has had a similar issue or if they know what component should I go check.

I have a 99 civic EX, D16y8 with 197k miles. For the past few months I have been experiencing an odd power lag when pressing the gas pedal. It happens usually at low speeds on first and second gear when trying to accelerate. It usually goes as follows: I press on the gas and there is no response, I start tapping on the pedal and you can feel the engine is attempting to rev-up but there is a resistance preventing it, after a few taps said resistance finally goes away and the engine becomes responsive again. I initially thought it had something to do with the throttle cable getting stuck. However, I have clean the throttle body with the cleaner and manually pull the cable finding no such resistance.

My engine is a leaker, at first it was due to the oil pan drain hole threads, but i have fixed this leak by using a longer bolt and special Teflon tape. Now most of the oil leaks through the flywheel cover. Due of this I been refilling the engine with cheap oil whenever the levels go low. Last week I was running with low levels of oil and the car was running fine(no power lags). I stopped at a gas station and filled the engine with oil to the appropriate levels, I turned on the car and as i was driving out there it was the power lag, quite strong to overcome. It felt as if the engine needed to push out some of the oil that was recently putted in so it could work properly.

This weekend i had taken down the oil pan to check things up and place a new oil seal. However before i put it back on I would like to fix this lag issue. The only thing that seemed out of the ordinary was the oil filter, as i took it off, no oil came out it and it looked somewhat dry. Could it be the oil pump the culprit of this behavior? or maybe any other component in the oil flow system that could be clogged and jamming the engine?

Before I take the timing belt off I would like to have a strategy, any assistance would be a major help, thanks!

 

It's a control problem, not oil related. Oil related problems end pretty quickly with the engine seizing up.

Scan the ECU for any codes and resolve them. If no codes, start by checking the throttle position sensor with a voltmeter. Weak sparks (most likely bad wires) will cause misfiring at low rpm and heavy throttle.

Also check that you don't just have a leak from the VTEC solenoid (easily repaired with new gaskets), they can leak oil like a stuck pig which will run down the engine that can make you think it's a rear main seal leak.

 

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)?

Also, does your oil light come on until the car starts and then go off?

 

Thanks for your replies,

I have move forward as recommended.

The only ECU code that I have is P0132 (O2 sensor Circuit High Voltage), this code is kind of normal as I always have had it and it comes back even after I replaced the Oxygen sensor itself. No misfiring codes however.

TomCat39 - "Also, does your oil light come on until the car starts and then go off?"
Yes, When I turn the key usually battery and oil lights come on, then they go off once the car is running.

I have checked the TPS cables while the sensor is connected and the key is in 'on' but the car is not running. I get the following results:
TP sensor input cable(Red): 2.81 V, When opening and closing the Throttle this value remains unchanged.
Sensor Ground (green): 11.9 V (Red+ terminal on battery)
Reference Voltage(Yellow): 4.9 V

Is this evidence enough that the sensor is malfunctioning? or what could this solid 2.81V value mean?

Thanks

 

I don't remember off the top of my head which wire it is on the TPS sensor but closed throttle should be a value of 0.48v and wide open throttle should be a value of 4.8v.

If the output of the TPS is a constant 2.81V the ECU thinks the car is a little over half throttle at all times.

I suspect you have the helms manual for the D16Y8 and referenced which wire was what on the TPS? My assumption is based on the details you were able to provide and it looks like you already know which wire is for what.

 

Measure all voltages to engine ground with the key on but the engine not running, and the sensor plugged in ("backprobe" the plug). The voltage on the center wire should vary as you move the throttle. Move it very slowly and make sure the voltage changes steadily without "dead spots."

The two outside wires should be one near zero volts and one near 5 volts. If you have that, but the center wire is staying at 2 volts, the sensor is probably bad.

You can also test the resistance of the sensor with it unplugged. It is a simple potentiometer.

 

my memory's bit the dust so try this:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...hread-2830131/