Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Fuel main relay possible issues

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Old Aug 27, 2017 | 06:40 PM
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Delslowman87's Avatar
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Default Fuel main relay possible issues

Will moisture cause a fuel main relay to go bad? Every time it rains my fuel pump doesn't seem to prime till after a few minutes. I replaced my ecu which solved some other issues. I've checked all the ground connections. And I've also replaced my starter, distributor, cap, wires and spark plugs. I have a 95 del sol with a d16z6 vtech.
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Old Aug 27, 2017 | 07:52 PM
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Default Re: Fuel main relay possible issues

Have you checked the relay and surrounding area to see if water is leaking onto it? Its only like 25 bucks on rockauto and takes about 5 min to change.
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Old Aug 27, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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Default Re: Fuel main relay possible issues

I had the same issue, it would rain fuel pump wouldn't prime like clockwork. Its the humidity that does it it seems. Re-flowed the solder on the relay and 10 minutes later it was fixed. Been going strong for a year or so since.

Get a cheap harbor freight solder kit if you don't have one. Then just remelt and solidify the solder on any joints that look cracked or corroded. ezpz
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Old Aug 28, 2017 | 09:21 AM
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Default Re: Fuel main relay possible issues

Originally Posted by tallguy
Have you checked the relay and surrounding area to see if water is leaking onto it? Its only like 25 bucks on rockauto and takes about 5 min to change.

Just checked it and there didn't seem to be any moisture
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Old Aug 28, 2017 | 09:22 AM
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Default Re: Fuel main relay possible issues

Originally Posted by Nave43
I had the same issue, it would rain fuel pump wouldn't prime like clockwork. Its the humidity that does it it seems. Re-flowed the solder on the relay and 10 minutes later it was fixed. Been going strong for a year or so since.

Get a cheap harbor freight solder kit if you don't have one. Then just remelt and solidify the solder on any joints that look cracked or corroded. ezpz
Tried it and I think there might be a crack on one of the points! Gonna take my *** to harbor freight!
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 06:17 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: Fuel main relay possible issues

I'm having similar roblems with fuel pump not getting power.
1995 Honda Civic Del Sol SOC VTEC.
Diagnostics so far:

1. Engine runs with starter fluid in air intake


2. Pump does not run with key on III or cranked. Starter runs. No voltage to pump positive.


3. Pump runs if Positive from battery to pump positive. Car does not start. (purpose of other black, white dot wire into pump? At first assumed ground, but pump runs with just positive juiced. Makes sense that pump would be ground to chassis because bolted to floor board.

4. Bench tested Main Relay and passed. (per instructions at https://www.thoughtco.com/how-to-tes...n-relay-281325). Instructions showed terminals 7, 5, 3, 1 - 8,4,2. I have 7, 5, 3, 1 - 8,6,2. I assumed instruction 4 was my 6. And performed test.

4.5 Main relay “clicks” when key on III or cranked.


Power into relay key with key off:

Terminal 2 hot. Rest cold

Power into relay key on:

Terminal 2 hot, Terminal 5 hot. Rest cold.


5. Replaced Main Relay with new one. No difference.


6. Visually checked all under dash and hood fuses; none blown.

Can not find a fuel pump fuse. Seams like there should be one. My under dash diagram is https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...f&action=click. My fuse cover is long gone. Still have cover to under hood. Nothing marked pump. Main Relay serves as fuse?

Don’t think car has fuel kill switch; too old.


7. Performed ECU test from 93 del sol si fuel not priming, need help!

1)put the Key in the ignition

2)turn it to the aux position and turn off the radio

3)turn the key to the OFF position

4)Turn the key to the ON (do not crank it) position. Look at the CHECK ENGINE light. Listen for the Relay to "CLICK" and see IF the check engine light goes out after the click.

END TEST

Results

1) If you hear a click and the check engine light goes out it is not the ECU.

Check engine light does not go out, so failed this test.


If this test is correct, then looks like ECU. I’m only trying to get car running to sell. (a tranny problem occurred just as I was buying a new car; too bad it couldn’t stay alive another week. ) Because of body and interior condition, only worth $1,000 running I guess. I don’t know if tran problem is axels, clutch, tran, simple adjustment, etc. Getting car running only leads to having to fix tran problem.


A Jerry rig solution would be fine as car would be sold with full disclosure.


So likely I will scrap or part out if ECU needs to be replaced.


See any holes in my testing or other suggestions?
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