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I purchased this car a few months ago, it was running great at first. Slowly started getting over heating problems, so far I've replaced distributor, rotor, plugs, wires, thermostat, water pump, harmonic balancer belt, and a few lines in the car. Just finished the water pump, couple days later its over heating again. I look under my oil cap and I find the milky sludge(water and oil). So do you think they sealed the engine and sold it or what? Idk if I should continue working on this car. Lot of time and money and just to get know where.. Please help!!!!!!
I purchased this car a few months ago, it was running great at first. Slowly started getting over heating problems, so far I've replaced distributor, rotor, plugs, wires, thermostat, water pump, harmonic balancer belt, and a few lines in the car. Just finished the water pump, couple days later its over heating again. I look under my oil cap and I find the milky sludge(water and oil). So do you think they sealed the engine and sold it or what? Idk if I should continue working on this car. Lot of time and money and just to get know where.. Please help!!!!!!
Very simple.. You've changed everything except what the problem was. The head gasket.
There you go. Everytime the car overheats, the head gasket was becoming more & more compromised, until it failed.
Cool thank you for clearing that up for me. Is it possible they used a sealer for the car and sold it? The radiator had water in it only. My dad is a great mechanic and thinks that is what they did.
it's possible, if you don't plan on pulling the head and having it resurfaced you can try dropping some K-Seal in it. That stuff can work wonders if the leak is not too big so if you don't plan on trying to repair it you can try dropping a bottle of that in your radiator and seeing if it will work before junking it. It's as simple as making sure the car is completely cooled down and cold, make sure there's enough room in the radiator to fit the entire bottle, turn the heater on full blast and full red, drop the bottle in and close the radiator cap and let it idle for about 30 minutes.
Alright awesome! Ill go ahead and try that before taking this engine apart again lol thanks for the info man! As soon as I can ill post the results, I should have a chance to do it this weekend.thanks again guys 👌
Alright awesome! Ill go ahead and try that before taking this engine apart again lol thanks for the info man! As soon as I can ill post the results, I should have a chance to do it this weekend.thanks again guys
Okie dokie.. .Really, if I were in your particular position, I'd just stop playing games and get the headgasket done. especially if you have a good mechanic at your disposal.
I get your point. But pops is just here to tell me what to do and how to do it, I'm doing the work. Its my first car also but I have lots of experience on small engine rebuilds prior to what I know now. I'm scared of fixing my top end with a new head gasket, and my bottom end blowing out a week later. K seal seems like a good alternative until I can afford a new engine in a few months. H22 or something strong but quite, and lil to no upgrades other then intake maybe.
I get your point. But pops is just here to tell me what to do and how to do it, I'm doing the work. Its my first car also but I have lots of experience on small engine rebuilds prior to what I know now. I'm scared of fixing my top end with a new head gasket, and my bottom end blowing out a week later.
You can see some of the condition of the bottom end if you just do the head gasket. Your pops will help you along. Go ahead and do the work and get it done and over with, since you've got lots of experience in smaller engines. Then you'll see what's going on with possibly both issues.
Sounds like you're horrible afraid to act, and waiting on the shortcut. I fully understand that I don't know you on a personal level in any way, but, from what I can tell, you seem a bit scared of knowing the truth. You have to treat this like ripping a bandaid off.... Just tapping around it isn't going to help. Know the truth, get it over with. Then you don't have to come on here with speculatory information. Once it's done... It's done..
Yes your right.. More then less, that water pump was the biggest job I have done on a car. But for 40 $ on a new head gasket, mite as well try it. Last thing I want to do is get rid of her, ill fix anything I can if possible. So head gasket repair starting this weekend!
you cant just replace the head gasket, you must have the head machined, and you have to measure the block to see if it's warped as well, if the block is somehow warped then it's no use machining the head
you cant just replace the head gasket, you must have the head machined, and you have to measure the block to see if it's warped as well, if the block is somehow warped then it's no use machining the head
Yes, again, common knowledge to those who have done this. If it means that the head is slightly resurfaced about .004", then all the more reason to have a clean surface for the new headgasket, and have the ability to inspect everything at the same time instead of grasping at straws like he's currently doing.
"Changing the headgasket", implicitly includes all of the proper prep work, measuring, machining, etc. Thanks.
Yes I'm going to do everything while I'm in there. I've already started cleaning everything I can inside of there, got started today and this is my progress so far. 👌
Yes, again, common knowledge to those who have done this. If it means that the head is slightly resurfaced about .004", then all the more reason to have a clean surface for the new headgasket, and have the ability to inspect everything at the same time instead of grasping at straws like he's currently doing.
"Changing the headgasket", implicitly includes all of the proper prep work, measuring, machining, etc. Thanks.
what made you think I was talking to you ? was it the fact that I didn't quote you or that I was posting immediately after the OP ?
Sorry about hijacking, but I just joined and can't start a thread. My 2000 Accord was bouncing at ~3000rpm (2900-3100), and when it was warm the idle would bounce from 12-2200. Also got a check engine lite. Took it ti the shop, they wanted $900+ to R&R the IAC valve. I did some research, pulled and cleaned it myself. I also cleaned the TB, but didn't pull it. Reinstalled, and the idle problem seems to have gone, but the bouncing from 2900-3100 when you floor it is still there. Should I buy a new IAC? Or could it be a vacuum leak?
Thanks.
Alright, got all my parts. For anyone looking for amazing quality parts and customer service, order from "Detoti" I received my whole package next day after buying. Saved me like 200$ on parts also! So this is where I'm at now, going to clean everything up and then add my new gaskets,head bolts, and put her back together!!! Ill post more later this week. 👌😊
99$ for this set!!!! 👌👌👌
No, I probably should have. But! My car is running great again! No more over heating or anything!! No leaks either! Thank you so much to everyone who gave advice and for pushing me to do the job and get it done! 💪😊