Whats the cheapest way to make brakes more effective...
Hi,
I was wondering if you guys could help me with the brakes on my 91 CRX HF
I just picked the car up a couple weeks ago and the brakes are horrible
I am not sure what pads are on the car or if they are worn out or not
But either way
If i wanted better stopping power, what would be the cheapest way to go?
any help would be great
Thanks
I was wondering if you guys could help me with the brakes on my 91 CRX HF
I just picked the car up a couple weeks ago and the brakes are horrible
I am not sure what pads are on the car or if they are worn out or not
But either way
If i wanted better stopping power, what would be the cheapest way to go?
any help would be great
Thanks
I'm pretty sure he said cheapest 
First off, bleed your brake lines and put in some high temp fluid. Buy some new pads (just hit up the auto store and buy the medium grade, or high grade pads), and see how that does...That should help out a lot. Dont worry to much about the drums in back.
After that, if you want do the rear Si swap, change your fronts to slotted, get some braded lines, and a new master cylinder.
-Jake

First off, bleed your brake lines and put in some high temp fluid. Buy some new pads (just hit up the auto store and buy the medium grade, or high grade pads), and see how that does...That should help out a lot. Dont worry to much about the drums in back.
After that, if you want do the rear Si swap, change your fronts to slotted, get some braded lines, and a new master cylinder.
-Jake
Bigger brakes will not only stop you faster, but will lessen the ammount of fade you get. Smaller brakes heat up faster because there isn't as much area as the larger disc. The larger disc has more area for air to pass over and cool the brake off.... less fade. Going with an agressive pad on a small disc will heat the disc quickly. It may add to braking power, but your rotor will take a beating and will most likely warp under harsh braking. Cross drilled/ slotted rotors will help lessen that effect. I suggest you look into getting some used Civic sedan EX knuckles. The Si has the same size rotor as all the other civics ... EX is the only larger one. Yes, they bolt right on to your car without any cons - integra brakes have the same rotor, but will give you bad suspension geometry.
OH - you should also get the sedan EX MC (or better) if you do this upgrade. Using the stock MC will make your brake pedal REALLY mushy because it won't provide enough fluid for the system to operate correctly.
Yes, this is NOT the cheapest method, but it's BETTER in the long run.
[Modified by 4drEF, 6:41 PM 11/11/2002]
OH - you should also get the sedan EX MC (or better) if you do this upgrade. Using the stock MC will make your brake pedal REALLY mushy because it won't provide enough fluid for the system to operate correctly.
Yes, this is NOT the cheapest method, but it's BETTER in the long run.
[Modified by 4drEF, 6:41 PM 11/11/2002]
high temp fluid doesn't do ****
if you bleed and flush your brake lines you should go ahead and get a new master cylinder cause that old one will clog up
performance friction brake pads are cheap and can be bought at autozone
if you bleed and flush your brake lines you should go ahead and get a new master cylinder cause that old one will clog up
performance friction brake pads are cheap and can be bought at autozone
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you want cheap?
axxis ultimate pads, brembo OE rotors, ate super blue fluid. that should cost like $130.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com
axxis ultimate pads, brembo OE rotors, ate super blue fluid. that should cost like $130.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com
Bleeding, new fluid (I used Castrol DOT4), new lines (Goodridge SS), and pads and rotors if you need them will help.
dude u have an HF unless u have a b20 like me go to autozone and get new rotors and pads a grand total of 25 minuites and 30-40 dollars makes a big diff.
you want cheap?
axxis ultimate pads, brembo OE rotors, ate super blue fluid. that should cost like $130.
axxis ultimate pads, brembo OE rotors, ate super blue fluid. that should cost like $130.
axxis ultimate pads, brembo OE rotors, ate super blue fluid. that should cost like $130.
Don't get slotted rotors, they are a big waste of money, they won't do anything but make your brakes look cooler. Don't get ebc or aem pads, ebc is crap, and with aem, there are better, cheaper options. SS braided lines are nice, but you most likely will be happy without them.
you want cheap?
axxis ultimate pads, brembo OE rotors, ate super blue fluid. that should cost like $130.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com
axxis ultimate pads, brembo OE rotors, ate super blue fluid. that should cost like $130.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com
brembo blanks or autozone specials
axxis ultimates or hawk (like shawnd mentioned)
and some DOT4 fluid
Blead the brakes
EBC green pads.
Slotted Rotors
Change your stunna 18's to some lightweight 15's
EBC green pads.
Slotted Rotors
Change your stunna 18's to some lightweight 15's
This weekend I replaced my front rotors with some brand new autozone specials, replaced the pads with Axxis Ultimates, and flushed the old fluid for some ATE Super Blue. I didn't touch the rear drums at all. I was kind of dissapointed with the results. I mean, it's okay, but I guess I was expecting better results.
My Gtech-Pro meter was reading 188ft 60-0mph braking distances before the upgrade. Afterwards I was able to pull some 170ft distances. Which is an okay improvement, but I guess I was hoping for more. I'm sure on the track I won't have near the fade problems (with the fluid and pads high-temp resistance) I would have had with the old pads/rotors/fluids, so that's a plus too.
The one thing I noticed bad was that the pedal is going all the way to the floor now. I don't think it was doing that before. Anyone have any ideas on that one?
And here's a pic: (ahhhh, fresh!)
My Gtech-Pro meter was reading 188ft 60-0mph braking distances before the upgrade. Afterwards I was able to pull some 170ft distances. Which is an okay improvement, but I guess I was hoping for more. I'm sure on the track I won't have near the fade problems (with the fluid and pads high-temp resistance) I would have had with the old pads/rotors/fluids, so that's a plus too.
The one thing I noticed bad was that the pedal is going all the way to the floor now. I don't think it was doing that before. Anyone have any ideas on that one?
And here's a pic: (ahhhh, fresh!)
what's wrong with OE honda rotors?
i like the earlier post, about bigger brakes.. the ONLY THING that bigger brakes will give you is less fade.. unless you are doing track days, then i could possibly understand this... as for a rear disk brake conversion, again, the only thing this will give you is better heat dissapation and cooler looks...
as for the design of rotors, whether they are slotted or drilled doesn't help..
"Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40's and '50's, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." These gasses then formed a thin layer between the brake pad force.......but today's friction materials do not exhibit the same gassing out phenomenon as the early pads.... Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.)"
Grassroots Motorsports
February 2001
if YOU haven't read it, you don't know anything about braking systems...
Im sure there has to be SOME benefit to using crossdrilled rotors, otherwise EVERY single highend braking system, on every race car would not have them. As far as using bigger rotors, yes alone they will not give you any increase. But if converting to bigger calipers, and rotors, then you will feel a great increase. A friend of mine converted to type-r brakes on his CX civic, and felt an awesome difference.
just out of curiosity. anyone else here besides be using Dot-5 brake fluid?? It may be a bit more expensive, although its got the silicone, so there's almost no way water can get into the fluid, causing the internals of the calipers so stay lubricated and keep them from rusting. its got the weirdest color too, its like neon purple, lol
good stuff if u ask me
good stuff if u ask me




