I bought a used 1995 Accord EX (F22B1, Auto, 117k miles) from my brother for about $1500. He couldn't figure out what the problem was, so I looked into it and it was giving a code 14. I replaced the ECM with an identical model from a scrap car at Rusty's. The car starts and drives now, so I've been using it for the past few weeks. It's a fun car and I'm happy with the purchase.

Whoever had it previously put a fart can and a "cold air intake" on it. (Photos attached)
The redline for this car is about 4,250 rpm through any gear. I've been told that this is too low for the engine. Is this true? Could it be that the custom intake is cause for this?
I've looked through the repair manual and found that the Intake Air Resonator Control System isn't fully connected. My brother says he plugged off the vacuum line that connects to this system and that it shouldn't be an issue as long as the car isn't coding.

Any ideas?

 

That is not a "cold air intake".

 

I am aware, but it's what is on the car and I don't have the time or money to dig for a factory air box. I agree it isn't an actual cold air intake but it's what passes for one to teenagers who want max PHWOAR out of their car.

 

My tach is not functioning properly, but I think its more like 6500 rpm. It definitely didn't change when I added my intake. Mine is pretty similar to the one pictured, but is one piece. I would say your's may be running in limp mode but I think that limits revs to 3500 or so. Maybe it has issues with the tach like mine, as I think it is fairly common. Do you have any codes showing?

 

is it still throwing codes ? A code 14 will definitely throw it into limp mode if the code is still there

rev limiting situations can be tough to pin down

 

It's not throwing anymore codes since I replaced the ecm. I'm going to look over connections today and see if I can spot something.

 

You will need to verify that the tach is actually correct. These tachs are known to be off by a bit when they get older.

Look at the four letter code sticker on the transmission, 'BOYA' 'MPJA' etc.
This will let you know what gear ratios are in the transmission.
Then drive the car, onramp would be best, and leave it in 1 check road speed when it hits the rev limiter, upshift and do again(if there is a long enough stretch). Do some quick math and you will know if you are only going to 4250rpm or if you are actually hitting the rev limiter with the tach reading wrong.

If the tach is reading low, pull the cluster as a whole, DO NOT TAKE IT APART!
Locate the screws on the back of the cluster that are about hte center of the tach, there will be three screws IIRC. Verify the screws are snug, if they are loose removed them and check for dirt/corrosion. Reinstall cluster and recheck tachometer readings.

DO NOT TOUCH THE SCREWS TO THE FUEL GAUGE!!!
One screw on the fuel gauge goes into a plastic 'nut' that is also the holder for the thin strand of wire for the fuel level sender. The nut WILL spin and snap the wire, this will cause a FULL level reading until the wire on the gauge is fixed. Replacing the gauge is not an option as the same thing will happen when installing the fuel gauge.

 

As far as I know, the car has an MP0A in it. I can't find the ratios anywhere online. Does anyone have them?

1st gear yields 40 mph and 2nd gets to 75.

 

Yup that sounds about right for the Accord geared transmission.
Gear ratios are most likely...
2.736 1st
1.483 2nd
1.026 3rd
0.674 4th
4.133 final

If you had the wagon trans it has a 4.285 FD with the same gear ratios, which would net you ~37MPH and 70MPH bouncing off the 6200rpm rev limiter.
Any other transmission would have a slower MPH at the same rev limit.
At cruise your tach should read 70mph ≈ 2700 rpm and 80mph ≈ 3100 rpm, albeit it is reading much lower.

Welcome to the 'my tach is snafu' club.
You can click on the link in my sig or...
CB7 F/H series AT gear ratios