"91 Accord wagon f22b1 won't start
I hope somebody can help me out. I have a '91 Accord wagon w/ a f22b1 transplant I installed in 2014 and It was running fantastic... so good in fact I decided to install all new struts, refreshed the steering and put on new tires... I picked the car up from the shop and filled it up w/ gas and on the way back home it died... it fired back up and made it about another block and died again and would not start... First thing I thought of was fuel... but the pump is running and the pressure is 42psi. There is one weird thing, when you turn the key on, the pump is supposed cycle w/ the relay, however when the check engine light goes out the pump stays running...? That led me to think it was the ECU, so I changed that... nothing. Switched the relay... nothing. Next I tested the spark w/ an old plug... blue fire... looked great. I checked the injectors, they seem fine... Scratching my head I switched the dizzy w/ a known good one... nothing... When I installed the engine I had put in new Dayco timing belts and a new idler bearing and water pump... they have less than 10k on them... it just seems UN-likely that it would be timing... (with the swap I don't have any external timing marks because I had to use the main pulley from the a1 engine). There is one other thing I noticed, the S light for the transmission is not working at all. (it is supposed to cycle with the relay). Do you think the tranny computer could be causing this?... not likely... I now have the car at a shop here in town, they have been going thru the same troubleshooting I did and they don't have clue either... I sure hope you folks can help me figure this out, I'm kinda out of ideas... Thank you!
Outside of pulling the covers you can atleast pull the number 1 spark plug and use the screwdriver/piston technique to check for tdc, then just match it up with the cam to see if everything is lined up. That's my first guess. It might somehow be off a tooth. Check the injectors for firing by having one spray in a rag when you crank it.
Perhaps when they were messing with the passenger side strut they knocked something electrical loose by the fuse assembly.
Perhaps when they were messing with the passenger side strut they knocked something electrical loose by the fuse assembly.
Thank you for the reply. It is timing! The cam gear somehow worked its way loose enough to allow the key to come out... it looks like they forgot to lock-tight it at the factory. I guess I'm lucky it didn't come all the way off... and that it was at an idle rather than highway speed when it failed, it could have done some serious damage. Again, Thank you!!
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hometheaterman
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