A few weeks ago it started getting stuck in Park and I would have to use the Lock Override to put it in N and then turn it on and drive. The D4 light flashing but car shifted OK (for the most part, maybe I had to let go of the gas a bit to get it to shift). Sometimes it would be stuck in Park, sometimes it wasn’t, when it would allow me to move it out of park after turning it on the D4 light did not blink and it shifted like a champ.

I replaced the interlock solenoid on top of the transmission and it seemed to fix the issue but not quite, it still sometimes (but not as often) won’t let me out of Park and after a while the clicking noise would start as I push and release the break and I would be able to get it out of park. Only difference now with the new solenoid is that

a) It takes less time for it to start clicking and allowing me to get out of park (i.e. it does not get stuck as often)
b) Even after overriding and the D4 light blinking, the car seems to shift better.

Do I need to get the transmission codes cleared so that the new solenoid start working completely? Do I need to replace something else? How much would it cost?

The car has 175000 miles and is 23 years old, obvious to say I don’t want to put a lot of money into it. If it is another solenoid or maybe even the ECU or TCU I might still be able to finesse that if I get a used one on ebay or something. But I don’t think rebuilding the transmission or something major like that ($$$$) would be doable or worth it.

More information.
I shorted the port to pull the transmission codes and it flashed the following codes:
1, 8 and 13
Any help would be appreciated.

 

Were the codes from the CEL or D4 light?

 

Hi Mike,
The codes were from the D4 blinking light. The CEL is NOT on when I drive and it did not blink when I shorted the port to get the codes.
So, it looks like they are all transmission codes. I've been told that I might need to replace the CKP Sensor, the Barometric Sensor and the (Heated) O2 Sensor (don't know if the upstream or downstream one) and that might fix the problem but that I might need to replace the ECU, although I think they meant the TCU, not sure.
Any light you can shed on these codes and potential problems/solutions would be appreciated.

I think I can replace all three of those sensors as a DIY job for around $100 (buying the parts on ebay or a junk yard) which is worth a shot. If it gets to needing to replace the ECU or TCU (I'd like to know first which would it need to be replaced, one or the other), and does the replacement part need to be programmed by the dealer to my car's VIN number? Or is it just a replacement with a part with the same exact part number as the original?
Getting the dealer involved in any kind of programming, etc., they will want a "diagnostic" fee, + programming + they will want to install a new part... I assume altogether will run me several hundred bucks if I'm lucky, maybe more than a thousand and I don't think the car merits spending that much on it.
Thanks for all your help!!