My BIL gave us a 1994 Civic DX auto with a D15B7 in it while we were visiting L.A. last week. It's going to be my 18y.o. daughter's first car, at least in her name. He hadn't driven it in a while and the last time he tried, it wouldn't start. He thought it was the fuel pump and frankly, so did I based on how long he told me it was sitting for. But a new pump, main relay and battery later, still no dice, crank but no fire. CEL on solid w/KOEO and no fuel pump prime. So I rented a U-Haul auto transport and dragged it home. Today I tried cleaning the thermo ground, header panel to valve cover ground and another I found behind the passenger headlight on the fender, with no change.
I also have a Geo Tracker and in the early 90's, Geo/Suzuki used the infamous "black death" capacitors in their ECU's. So I pulled the ECU from The Roach today and I can without a doubt say at least it's contributing to the problem. I'll be buying one off eBay once I hear back from a seller.

 

Resolder main relay first. A bad main relay will cause the same thing of CEL staying on and fuel pump not running.

If the car has been sitting for years, you should drain the gas tank and put some fresh gas in. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the tank.

 

Edited the first post so people can hopefully now see the pics of the extensive damage.
The main relay has been replaced.

 

Yes that ECU needs to be replaced. Looks like actual fire damage to the board not just a leaky capacitor.

 

Received a replacement ECU from eBay today. Installed and the car fired right up. Got to drive it for the first time by going out and filling it with a bottle of Techron and a tank of gas.
I noticed that the temp gauge didn't move, so I unplugged the 1-wire sensor under the distributor, grounded it and turned on the ignition. It shot right up. Hooked it back up and now it works, go figure. I also noticed that the cooling fan no longer runs with KOEO.
The transmission shifts kind of hard. I'm hoping a fluid change will help.
The windshield has grooves in it from bad wiper blades. $180 installed from Safelite, not bad.
3rd brake light is out.
Needs an alignment
Passenger mirror needs to be replaced.
Climate controls don't light up and the temp lever is broken off. AC works though, thank goodness. Do all Civics have wimpy blower motors though?
Glove box latch is broken.
Left rear door doesn't open from the outside and the window is held 99% up by my BIL running a screw through the regulator.
Inside trunk release... doesn't. Might just need struts though, as even when using the key in the back, you have to lift the lid a little to help it up.
Needs paint badly... eventually.

After I got home, my wife decided she wanted to take it for a spin, started it up. It ran for a few seconds, sputtered, then died. Wouldn't start. After dinner, I remembered I had put the OEM main relay back in. Swapped in the new one we bought and it fired right up again. She's out driving it right now.

 

The 92-95 automatic transmission shifts harder than most other cars, but are solid performers. It's the rougher shifting complaints from customers that caused Honda to create the CVT transmission in the 96+ series that is a known problem.

A 3 x 3 fluid drain and fill will help keep the tranny going and is the typical method to "flush" these older honda auto's. Whatever you do, don't take it to a shop to be flushed, that tends to kill them.

A 3 x 3 is drain and fill the transmission (about 3 liters) drive 100 miles, drain and fill, drive 100, then do the third drain and fill and call it a day. This constitutes the old Honda auto tranny flush done in such a way as to prolong the life of the tranny. 3 Liters x 3 times with 100 miles between.

 

A/C performance may improve if you clean all the leaves and mouse nests out of the ductwork. Remove the blower motor and reach through there.

 

In addition to what mk378 said, it might not be the blower that is weak but the condensor could be full of crap.

When you drop the blower motor you may want to brush vacuum the condenser fins if their are clogged with dirt and stuff.

 

The air is cold, just not very fast, but I'll check the condenser too along with the evaporator under the dash when I drop the blower.

Thanks guys.

 

Sorry meant evaporator. My mistake on terminology.

Basically it's the AC "radiator" under the dash but instead of expelling heat, it expels cold.