I just purchased a 2001 honda civic lx sedan on 06/10/17. Has 84,000 miles. I was driving at about 40 mph and turned on the A/C. The check engine light came on and the car lost most of its power. I was only able to limp along at 10 mph and could not get rpms up even when I pushed the pedal to the floor. Slight burning smell under the hood and very slight greyish smoke. Any idea what the culprit is ?

 

First look for a bad wire/connector at the sensor and along the harness. The sensor is here:


Second:

1. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the sensor connector. Then turn the ignition to ON(II).

2. Measure voltage from the YEL/BLK wire to body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES- step3

NO- repair the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the CMP(TDC) sensor.

3. Measure voltage between the GRN wire and body ground.

Is there about 5V?

YES- step 4

NO- step 6

4. Measure voltage between the BRN/YEL wire and YEL/BLK wire.

Is the battery voltage?

YES- step 5

NO- Repair the wire between the CMP(TDC) sensor and G101 (the ground going from the block to the radiator support)

5. Substitute a known-good sensor and recheck.

Is it still throwing P1361 or P1362?

YES- Update or replace the ECM/PCM

NO- It needed that new sensor, you should be good to go.

6. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector A26 and body ground. (connector A is the only 31 pin connector and is the bottom connector. terminal 26 is the only GRN wire on that connector) **Notice I didn't say to disconnect the connector**

Is there about 5V?

YES- Repair the wire between ECM/PCM A26 and CMP(TDC) sensor.

NO- step 7

7. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect ECM/PCM connector A(31P).

8. Check for continuity (Ohms) between A26 (GRN wire) and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES- repair the wire between ECM/PCM A26 and CMP(TDC) sensor

NO- update or replace the ECM/PCM

NOTE: If you can't find the bad part of the wire just run a new wire. Make sure it's the same gauge.


For P0420: Replace the sensor(s) and if that doesn't do it then replace the cat. You need to change the sensors when you change the cat anyways. None of this will do you any good unless you get that sensor problem fixed- it's probably what made the cat go bad in the first place.

If you, want to go cheaper (and don't have to meet emissions) get headers and do the sensor trick: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...on-w-pics.html

new cat-$600+ new sensors-$400= $1000 VS headers $100-300+ sparkplug non-foulers-$10= $100-300 (roughly)

 

do you just put this reply automatically to any post that has the words “limp mode” in it?