I NEED AN EG ELECTRICAL GURU
Hey guys,
So, my car starts and then won't continue to run after about 5 seconds. It'll start right back up like there isn't a problem. I have sourced the problem to something is cutting power to the fuel pump. I can read voltage when the system primes then for about a second once the car has started. Buttttttt, the weird part is if I stick my probe into the backside of the pinout of terminal 7 on the main relay I'm reading 13-14v till about a half second after the car dies. So, then I thought "mhmm maybe the wiring from the relay to the pump has a fault or something." Nope, thats not the case if I unplug the main relay and stick a wire into the pin then take the other side of the wire to battery the fuel pump runs no problem.
P.S. I have a CEL code for the oxygen sensor but that shouldn't cut power to the fuel pump....
So, my car starts and then won't continue to run after about 5 seconds. It'll start right back up like there isn't a problem. I have sourced the problem to something is cutting power to the fuel pump. I can read voltage when the system primes then for about a second once the car has started. Buttttttt, the weird part is if I stick my probe into the backside of the pinout of terminal 7 on the main relay I'm reading 13-14v till about a half second after the car dies. So, then I thought "mhmm maybe the wiring from the relay to the pump has a fault or something." Nope, thats not the case if I unplug the main relay and stick a wire into the pin then take the other side of the wire to battery the fuel pump runs no problem.
P.S. I have a CEL code for the oxygen sensor but that shouldn't cut power to the fuel pump....
Also, the car runs fine if I manually supply power to the fuel pump. Oh and my under hood fuse box is internally falling apart I have to use a C clamp to get fuse #31 to get a connection -____- The main purpose of this thread is to find out if by buying the Rywire stand alone (race) harness will fix my problem or if it'll still be there.
https://www.rywire.com/product-p/b-sub-race.htm
The link above is to the rywire stand alone harness.
https://www.rywire.com/product-p/b-sub-race.htm
The link above is to the rywire stand alone harness.
First off replace that fuse box. Maybe you are losing power to the main relay from the fuel pump fuse.
I suppose it would work to replace the whole system with rywire but that would cost several hundred and you really don't need to second-guess the Honda engineers.
I suppose it would work to replace the whole system with rywire but that would cost several hundred and you really don't need to second-guess the Honda engineers.
Diagnose before throwing parts at it. Find a friend with an ECU you can borrow and try. Barring that, find one in a junk yard, buy it, use it, and return it if it doesn't help.
Well the thing is the car is strictly a track car so I don't really need all that extra wiring as I just need the motor run and brake lights. So, replacing the fuse box would be sort of pointless when I am just going to get rid of it anyways. My goal to is to make sure the problem isn't a result of a bad sensor or if the ecu is receiving a bad signal.
I know forsure it isn't the ECU because before I swapped in my z6 I had a fuel pump issue as well (a little different) with my b7 and I had replaced the ECU 3 times because I was told it was the ECU. Well again this is a new ECU and still a fuel pump problem.
Check this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-fine-3156201/
My car said it was a Code 1 Oxygen Sensor, but that was wrong. Ultimate cause was a Code 43 - Fuel Delivery. Have you tried a different fuel pump?
My car said it was a Code 1 Oxygen Sensor, but that was wrong. Ultimate cause was a Code 43 - Fuel Delivery. Have you tried a different fuel pump?
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