I'm guessing cold air intake, headers, what else? I'm new to Honda. Is it even possible without F/I ?

 

Yeah it's pretty much impossible, but not for the reasons you may think. Mostly because the RSX is front wheel drive, it's gonna be pretty difficult to get Rear Wheel Horse Power, lol (rwhp).

That being said, if you have the Type S version, you already have around 160-170 whp, so it's definitely possible with a few bolt-ons and MOST importantly, a proper dyno tune.

 

HAHAH how did I miss that? *Fixed* I have the base which probably has 130 fwhp, so what bolt-ons do you recommend?

 

so you want to gain 70 whp? i'm not sure bolt ons will get you there, unless its a bolt on F/I

 

well my point is, what do I add to maximize power, whatever the threshold is naturally aspirated.

 

you could find alot of info about making 200 whp with a k20 if you searched google for a few minutes. if you have a k20a3, youre out of luck. even with k20a2 rockers/cams, those usually dont make over 185-190. if you have a k20z1, its easy.

intake (preferably not a short ram)
header
3 inch exhaust (preferably with no catalytic converter)
kpro

That should get you around 205-210 on a dynojet, with tuning of course. With an RBC intake manifold and a 70-74mm throttle body, 220+ shouldnt be difficult. With top-shelf parts, some guys are making 230+.

Thousands of guys have made over 200 whp with k20a2/z1/z3 engines since 2002. Nothing new. Look at what parts combinations are making X whp on Y dyno to get an idea, then go buy parts and learn for yourself. The Evans Tuning dyno database is a good place to start to see parts combinations and the dyno results. You can find that easily with a google search.

EDIT: i missed that you have a base model. Youre out of luck.

 

Ya I have base, you're telling me it's impossible to get to 200? Well how about 170? That in the realm?

 

I've seen guys get over 170 with k20a2 rockers/cams and good bolt ons. I don't know if you can get there with just bolt ons and tuning. I know 150-60 is pretty normal for bolt ons and tuning, so 170 may be possible with quality parts and a good tuner. Real talk though, a k20a2 or k24a2 longblock can be had for around $1k these days. Bone stock with zero tuning software, those engines put down more than a k20a3 with bolt ons/tuning. Just food for thought

 

Does your car have an automatic or manual transmission ???

 

manual

 

In honda challenge with H2 trim on a k20A3 we get around 175 to the wheels when its all uncorked . By the rules we have to use all honda parts and only 1" port match on the head.

 

DC Sports Ceramic Headers
AEM Gun metal cold air intake
Skunk2 Pro Series intake manifold
Magnaflow 2.25 Stanless steel cat back exhaust system

Where would I be with a good tune?

 

Only use the DC "Race" header, not the shorty that uses the stock cat "B" pipe. I would suggest the Skunk2 Alpha header. Save your money on the Pro series intake manifold... it will hurt you more than help. Get rid of the stock I/M and replace it with the PRB or K20 PRC... and if you don't mind losing a bit of midrange power, you could even go to the USDM 8th Gen Si RBC I/M. Your intake tube and exhaust choices will work just fine. Add in a set of BC Stage 2 cams with valvesprings and street (steel) retainers, and a quality tune should put you in the 180-190 wheel HP range.

 

that was very helpful, thanks! What kind of clutch do you recommend? I want something with midway catch point, I just got the car with 106k miles on it, not sure if clutch has EVER been changed, the clutch will not grab and go unless you gas or else it stalls, so I'm looking to replace that. Something for the streets no stage 2 clutch or anything like that something comfortable.

 

also why not the pro series manifold? Hurt as in my wallet or actually the car.

 

A good clutch choice would be the Exedy Stage 1 organic kit... handles about 30% more than stock "Type S" power yet has an OE pedal feel and no chatter. I suggested against the Skunk2 Pro series I/M because it is TOO BIG for your power goals... meaning it will LOSE power in the midrange and make no more peak power than a properly sized I/M. If you want it because it looks cool... ok, but you are giving up usable street power from 2500-6000 RPM.

 

I live in California so the Race header's aren't going to do, how much HP do they add?

 

Oh wow. Living in California with your restrictions and using this as an every day driver with SMOG/BAR or REF or whatever the hell you call it, you're not going to make even the 175whp on the K20A3. Time to swap blocks or possibly get a legal supercharger or turbocharger kit.

Those are about $3000 for the equipment (without Turbocharger) but, if you find the right one, (Greddy still has their RSX kit that does a great job AND still California legal until you add an intercooler which is what you need anyway. The MSRP is high, but really, you're paying a LOT less.

http://www.greddy.com/products/turbo...ll-turbo-kits/

You're much better off coming to the dark side

 

Nah I wana keep it naturally aspirated, hell even if I hit 160 whp at this point I'd be happy haha. I can pretty much use everything EXCEPT race headers.

 

Whelp. then you already have your answer. An intake, a legal header and exhaust, and tuning, and you may get that to the wheels. As stated.
Don't fall for the hype that turbocharging isn't reliable for daily use. It can be, that's why there are production cars using it. . But, again, you have to focus what's more important to you. Power, or cost? One of those two have to give, especially living in a strict state like California.

 

Replaced the clutch, flywheel, added an intake, skunk2 megapower RR exhaust, and I figured **** the Smog and got racing headers, jesus this thing moves now. What do you recommend I do before turboing it?

 

Understand how turbocharging works, be realistic with the fuel you use, your power goals, and your budget (no eBay for you).

That's about it.

 

Get it properly tuned.

 

If he's going to turbocharge it, there's no point in getting it tuned first, just to go back again and start all over on the dyno.