03 k20a2 in a 94 EG using K-PRO
When I first stared this engine I got crank sensor: intermittent interruption, then the next day the VTC: phase gap after starting it the 3rd time. I had the head off to do some springs +retainers, put a brand new oem Honda tensioner in and set the links as they're supposed to be. After the first rotation the black links had moved one over i'm told that was normal. Now the black links are 4-5 off, but here's the craziest part i'm still netting 213 psi of compression. the side links on the gear are dead on, same with the back of the cam. Last thing I can think to check is the phase plate on the back of the came to see of the keyway is loose. The white mark on my pulley is gone so I had to use the old stick down the cylinder trick, I've had good luck with it in the past and trust it to gauge TDC.

 

So now the links are only one off, possibly not even as there is some range they will move and still be in time. Piston is at TDC and the cam marks are dead on. How much can those links move before it's out of time

 

Forget the colored links... they are only used when you first lay the chain around all gears before releasing the tensioner against the slack guide. After that, there's no telling how many rotations are needed to get the marks to come back around to the proper position. Let's focus on the crankshaft at the SAME time as you are focused on the cam gears. Referencing your first pic above, when you have the cam gears at that position, look down to the crankshaft and see if the TDC timing mark is aligned with the arrow pointer on the chain cover. The TDC mark is the single one all by itself... and the LEFT most mark when looking at the group of four. If this looks ok, then you must pull the chain cover and re install the chain with the alignment marks at the dark links and then re-tension.

The possibility of the cam pulser sensors being bad are slim... but not impossible. Before you tear down the engine in car, you may want to test them.

 

Thank you, so the chain has to be re-done regardless, even if the mark lines up on the pulley now? I still have to check the phase plates themselves at the back of the cams, how would I test them or the crank sensor, visually they seemed fine but I wasn't too surprised by that.

 

The colored links are utilized as a simple visual cue to make sure the slack of the chain is in the correct places with respect to the cams and crankshaft. One thing that you mentioned... somewhere since you have so MANY threads going in different places LOL... that you heard a "pop" or "clank" which translates to chain slip somewhere before proper tension was created. Tips: DO NOT under any circumstances turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise during assembly... not even a little bit... the lack of residual oil volume normally found immediately after an engine has run decreases the tensioners ability to maintain pressure on the chain, allowing chain slip at greater frequencies... so CLOCKWISE rotation only. ALWAYS use new parts while you have the chain cover removed... tensioner, all guides and a new chain reduce the chances of possible future chain slip. Also inspect the cam and crank gears... if they appear to be unusually sharp, rough, shiny, or inconsistent in finish, you may also want to replace them as well. Once all parts are in proper time, rotate the crankshaft two full turns and then check the space between the inside edges of the chain at the area where they appear to be closest to each other. If all parts are installed correctly and are of sound serviceability... the chains will be about 11/16" to 3/4" apart from each other. If they are closer... especially if they are a LOT closer... something is WRONG and another failure will occur in short order. A stretched chain looks a whole lot like a brand new chain. I just inspected a 2009 TSX engine with 160K miles that had jumped time... after placing the components back in proper mechanical time, the chain nearly touched itself !!! Everything replaced... she runs like a sewing machine.

While you are back inside... check to make sure no fingers/pulser teeth are damaged or missing at either the crankshaft or the camshafts. Also make sure no small metal bits are stuck to the magnetic pick-ups or sensors.