I'm finishing up regreasing and putting new CV boots on my 2005 CR-V EX. I'm having a big problem trying to reconnect the lower control arm to the bottom ball joint.

What's happened is that after pulling the steering knuckle/rotor assembly off the axle, the steering knuckle/rotor assembly dropped down, apparently pushed down by the strut's coil spring and shock absorber. Even pushing down as hard as I can on the LCA, the ball joint stud is still about 2" too low to fit into the LCA. I've tried several times to push the whole strut/steering knuckle assembly up with a bottle jack, but as it lifts, the strut assembly keeps shifting towards the rear farther away from the LCA. Also, the strut assembly has slipped off the jack several times. I've also tried jacking up the strut assembly and then lowering the rotor onto a wood block, but then I can't move the assembly to line it up with the LCA.

I rented a strut spring compressor set from AutoZone, but they're designed to be used with the strut assembly out of the car, and there isn't enough clearance to fit it on the spring when the strut is on the car.

I looked extensively on Honda-tech, YouTube and on the web when I was researching how to do this job, and there was no mention anywhere of this happening. They all just say to "just reattach the ball joint stud to the LCA." At this p;oint, I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this out.

Has anyone run into this problem or have any ideas about how the get the LCA and the ball joint lined up and connected? Also, how to prevent this problem, as I still have to do the other side.

 

I believe you have to remove the 2 14mm bolts that hold in the sway bar bushing. Once you do that, you should be able to get the lower control arm to move down far enough for the ball joint to go in. Put a pry bar between the control arm and the sub frame for leverage.

 

meiskeith, thanks for the reply. But I already have the sway bar link detached from the control arm. Is that what you're talking about or do you mean something else? I will try the prybar in the meantime. I was concerned about doing that because of possibly damaging the ball joint boot.

 

do you have an extra set of hands in there? might need to slowly jack up from the brake rotor hat, and a buddy slowly put pressure on the assembly to keep it in line. then lower the jack slowly as he makes sure its still lined up.

 

Thanks, Suldy. I actually came up with something similar. I had tried using a crowbar to pry the LCA down, and couldn't get it down far enough to clear the BJ stud. I had previously tried using a bottle jack to jack up the assembly under the rotor and the rotor kept slipping off the jack as the strut moved out and back as it was jacked up. I also tried jacking under the tongue on the strut that connects to the tie rod. I didn't have another set of hands, and the problem was that the strut assembly agian kept wandering out and back. Once the thing slipped off the jack and outward, pulling the inner bearings out of the inbound CV cup, so I had to pull the axle again and reassemble the joint and the boot.

Here's what finally did the trick. I figured that using one point of jacking on the strut arm was causing the movement, and that I needed a more balanced upward force. So I set up two jacks on a large 6" x 6" block of wood, one just in front of the strut assembly and the other just behind it. Then I bridged them with a flat steel prybar. (Sears Craftsman, but Stanley makes them also) I placed the prybar under the flat bottom of the strut assembly where the steering knuckle is attached, and the ends of the prybar on top of each bottle jack. Then I slowly raised both jacks, going back and forth between them to keep them even, and pushing in and holding the strut/knuckle/rotor assembly to keep it from wandering. It worked great. Here's some pics of the setup, A good strong bar of steel or possibly angle iron would probably work instead of the prybar, but that's what I had.

 

Glad I found "Eric the Car Guy's" video: Pry bar was easier (but without a lift I had to have the CR-V jacked up a bit higher than normal to get the leverage on the LCA.) I also had tried and failed to jack up the knuckle.
Glad you found a way that was painless in the end!

 

If I remember correctly I jacked up on the brake rotor. Yes, do it carefully...and yes, the sway bar was disconnected.

 

bought this kit -

Powerbuilt 648626 6 Pc Front End Service Set Kit 3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKIDK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

nothing do with them but the tie rod one works like magic pop like butter- and the big pully camp thing use for ball joins - works cause can get in clamps without breaking seals on ball joins seals -- if do it right. and put nut upside down or a different one or will mess it up and wont go back on right and ball join shaft will just spin (can put wedge in if have power tool tighten
up nut not best but will do it)