Hello all,
Recently did a start up on my y7/y8 head conversion on a 2000 civic lx auto (5 speed pending) It's been set with the timing gun, sounds good idles/fans etc. I havent been able to get myself to test drive it for a few reasons

1. I continue to get Vtec system failure (code 22) + Vtec system failure B1? (B1 as in Bank 1 - 02??) The solenoid works grounded to neg and taps to positive and it clicks (don't own a voltmeter yet)

2. I notice the head is drier then what it should normally be oil wise. Almost like very little pressure is getting to the head...when googling this I always come up on the debate of an oil orifice on either the block or one in between cylinders 2/3 on the head under the LMA...didn't want to rip the head off again unless absolutely necessary. I called parts guy at Honda and asked about the oil passage/pin/screw on the y7 block which he said "no - there is not" so now I'm wondering how and where the passages are to the solenoid itself...I can obviously see some of it when valve cover is off. When I take the completely off the head little to no oil comes out. I mean nearly dry. What am I missing? beginning to think I received the wrong head or just being paranoid (p2j -1 with 00 stamp)

*looking into switching out y7 oil pan/ pickup for ex if there is a difference (someone mentioned this but haven't googled enough yet) plus oil pan gasket decides to seep out oil when its not even 6 months old and the oil level is still good and oil still clean

3. I am currently using p2p a 92 ECU for an auto EX 99-00..everything was wired correct/neatly. Had to source terminal pins from junk yard NO ONE carries them around here. in the write up I followed it mentions going from 3 wire on the IACV to 2. THEN a second write-up says automatics use 3 wire. And to leave it..that leaves me running knock, pressure switch, and directly to ecu with my regular stock y7 harness..

4. Still missing an 02 sensor - does this cause vtec to not engage/ system failure? due to CEL?

Also noticed a SMALL coolant leak coming from ECT plug its actually coming through the plug itself - my fault - amazon special. What scares me is the small oil coming from the corner of the block/head on passenger side of engine so while valve cover was off I checked head bolts which were unusually loose..Torqued in order again to spec which slowed possibly stopped leaked..

those are my main issues with this mini me or "vtec conversion" whatever you want to call it..

Sorry for the rant...came this far and spent an unnecessary amount of money for something so simple in theory...but I've learned a lot haha.

 

The oil jet is in the head on the Y8 (OBD2) head.

On teh OBD1 motors, they put it in the block. So when putting the head onto the obd1 block you have to remove the jet from the block or it is double constricted.

You shouldn't have to mess with any oil jets with your setup as you are doing an OBD2 head on an OBD2 block.

However, you bought the head from someone, maybe they pulled the oil jet out of the head which in turn reduces oil pressure in the head and would be a lot less oil pushed around as there is no pressure.

To verify you have to pull the head. But loos head bolts will cause all kinds of living hell too. Did you check to make sure the head is not warped?