Ok HT this is my second post and need help.

Things that don't work on my dash,
all gauges
All illumination lights (dome light and door lights works)
Shift selector by gauges
Radio
clock
Turn signals inside and out both side markers and turn signals on bumper
hazards
Glove box light
passenger mirror light


What does work :
key in chimer
Headlight on chimer
Brake lights
Headlights
Wipers
Sun roof

Things I tested
All fuses using visual inspection, I do not have a test light but I replaced all obvious fuses labeled as things like "day lights" "radio" "turn signals" etc both in footwell and under hood

dimmer switch plug only receives about 1 volt using volt meter
Dimmer switch it self does not change resistance when changing dial used volt meter to test

Checked radio fuse

Not tested
Cruise control

My conclusions
Probably not the instrument cluster because the headlights indicator works the chimers work sun roof works all that routes through the cluster I believe.

Could be the integrated control unit or the multiplex, all though I did not see it on the wiring diagram I feel the the radio the intruments and the clock route through the ICU but everyone that has a problem with the dome light and door switch and wipers... Etc so I do not know...

Could be the fuse box either loose connection to the fuse connector

Could be a bad fuse connector

Could be a ground Loose

Could be a burnt wire in the wiring harness somewhere

There is a lot of possibilities and very little money to test. So what are the most likely problems down to the least likely?
Or any other ideas too?

Thank you

 

Sounds like a Ground is loose or not connected under the dash? What has happened that all this stopped working? Body damage / repair? Mechanical work? Mods?

 

Just had a thought.. Maybe the Electrical Portion of the Ignition switch has failed? It could be only feeding part of the circuits in the under dash fusebox.. ?

 

Oh yes I was going to provide these details as well. I did tear down my intake to clean it and changed my fuel filter... But I got the car running and everything worked, went on test drive about 10 miles of decent hard driving to get alot of pressure into the fuel lines came home let it run for a min went inside came out and the gauges were dead car was still running... Car still runs fine

Could be the main ground as I did take off the battery multiple times during repairs.

It does have an aftermarket alarm in it a venom I believe but It has been installed pretty much day one. The guy I bought the car from knew the guy he got it from. The alarm has only caused a no start problem as it is tied into the ignition and it has a kill switch.

The ignition switch has been very loose for awhile now, as I can start the car and remove the key with the car running, I do have an original key though and it is very rounded off, could be the key or the switch or both. It's not a chip key.

Is there anyway to test the ignition switch? Electrically with volt meter or physical inspection?

I did run across someone that had an ignition switch that was always clocked one slot to far so stage I was always clocked to stage II so stage III was never intiated. Or something like that