I started thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...sible-3298629/ and realized it looks like 304 threads on here. I am serious about reaching my goals as long as I can afford it and find confidence what I want will work. Thanks to Chance EG and k20z1ej1 for your help so far.

I want to make a high compression f22b1. I do not want an H22, f23 or any other swap. I do not want to turbo. My car is the only year Accord wagon with VTEC, a 5 speed manual and a sunroof sold in America. Its vin is in low 300's. I want to keep original motor/transmission, but I want to have a little more power.

Did some research and it looks like 86mm k20 pistons should work with my f22b1 rods. Can anyone confirm this? Is there anything that has to be done other than boring the sleeves? I want to be able to drive this every day. I want it to last. I am also having trouble finding an adjustable cam gear for f22b1. The best I can find is an OBX ebay cam gear with 5 bolts. Apparently some say it will work ok with better nuts/bolts. I am pretty sure I will be purchasing Bisimoto level 2 cam shaft re-grind and valve springs. I plan on having a shop tune and adjust cam if I can find a good set up.

 

They will fit but they need to be installed backwards. The dot on the pistons that would normally point towards the timing side of the engine would need to be pointing towards the transmission side. You will need to use a compression calculator to figure out exactly what kind of static compression you will have when it's all said and done. An 11:1 K20 piston that yields that compression in a K20, may not necessarily yield 11:1 when used in an F22 setup, etc etc. I would look into using an NPR or OEM cast piston set as opposed to a forged piston setup. You will get much more mileage out of a cast piston setup and overall it'll be a much quieter, happier engine in the long run. The stock F22B1 rods used pressed style pins, whereas I believe the K20 will using floating pin. You would have to take the lot to a machine shop and have them make it work, or alternatively just use an aftermarket forged rod designed for floating pins to begin with. As far as the timing gear, I've used some OBX parts in the past but never anything engine related. Not sure if I would trust it with something like that. Timing gear slips and it's RIP your engine. AEM did offer some at one time so maybe try looking for one of those.

I'm sure you already know but you're stepping into an expensive exercise in futility. You're already stepping away from being "all original" when considering a build like this. So any resale value for a collector(doubtful that there will ever be such a thing) will go down anyway unless you leave it 100% stock. Chasing NA power with an F22 is pointless especially since you want to keep the original long geared transmission as well. You'll make more on a stock H22 or H23A blue top swap for much, much cheaper and in the end it will be much quicker. Personally, if you value the originality of the car then leave it alone and find something else to mod. Just my $.02. Good luck.

 

Is there a simpler (similar to f22b1), 86mm piston that would work better?

I have looked for cam gears and continue to do so. I found skunk2 and aem but cannot find anyone who still carry them.

I may be wrong but I feel like what a collector looks for is slowly changing. Right now I think a matching low number, stock looking engine/transmission is a pretty cool idea, but I am going into this knowing I am probably not gonna make money if I ever sold it.

Also, OEM 94 wagon 5 speed transmissions are closer to an H22 than F22 transmission. Gears are much closer than sedan and coupe.

 

If you want cast then not that I can think of. You can get a set of forged pistons made however you want but like I said you should try to stick to cast since it's just going to be a basic NA application. A set of forged rods wouldn't really hurt anything and only add a few hundred to the build. They're lighter than the stock ones and much stronger so you wouldn't have to worry about fatigue with extra rpm and it would free up some rotational mass in the bottom end.

Not sure where you heard that about the transmission but that's incorrect. The gear ratios are the same, except the final drive is just slightly shorter. It's a small difference at best. An H22 transmission has substantially shorter gears by a pretty big margin. You would be surprised at how much the car would wake up just removing some rotational mass and getting a shorter geared transmission.

 

So, to clarify, if I get forged rods and pistons it will work fine, but be louder and not last as long? I apologize, I just want to do this right, and obviously don't know how to.

I found these which I am guessing are forged. No info on site but I am waiting for an email back. Hopefully they still sell them. So I would need forged f22 rods to work well?
https://www.raceeng.com/p-31041-wise...-523p855r.aspx

 

Yes. Forged engines have to be built to looser tolerances and generally don't last as long because of that. They also require you to be very gentle during the winters and on very cold starts when the piston will beat around in the bore until it warms up and expands aka piston slap. The aluminum they are made out of expands and contracts with temperature(much more than a cast piston) so the extra clearance is necessary so that the piston doesn't over-expand and come into contact with the cylinder walls. Again, I definitely would not recommend them for a basic all motor build that you intend to put a fair amount of miles on.

Basically, if you want to run a forged piston then run a forged rod. Like I said before, you can get a machine shop to make it work with the stock rods but that's a silly thing to do. I would call a machine shop local to you that deals with imports and see if they would be willing to do the work. You could use an NPR K series cast piston on stock rods and get where you want to be compression wise without much hassle, less cost, and last longer/be quieter. Even cheaper still would be a stock H23A blue top swap.

 

you might could use 85.5mm b series pistons

 

So nobody has done this? I can't seem to find anyone who has put high compression pistons in an f22b1.

 

Benny,

My whole motor is bismoto parts. i have the bisimoto 9.1:1 rods and forged pistons 86MM (which are arias btw) and the bisimoto F22a Engine bearing set . Along with the bisimoto F22A Non vtec pro springs, Bisimoto Valves, Bisimoto Level 1.2 turbo regrind cam, bisimoto cam gear, New valve seats, blox 68mm tb, F2H adapter plate, skunk 2 h22 intake manifold, bisimoto F22a 86mm head gasket, ARP head studs, H22 heat shielding intake gasket, ktuned balance shaft eliminator kit, bisimoto f22a light flywheel,RDX injectos with obd2 to obd1 connectors, AEM v2 Cold air intake, DC header (POS btw) 255 fuel pump, t2t4 tranny, stage 4 clutch (which ill be going back to oem next weekend). Tuned in the texas heat made 170whp. Need to get it retuned also because id like to port and polish the head.

If i were you, get H rods (f22a length) with a 10.5:1 pistons, along with a good header, intake manifold matched to a 70MM TB, port and polish your head, injectors and fuel pump and a bad *** tune youll be close to or more than 200HP easily and close to 180 torque. Dont under estimate the head. it outflows all of the other heads honda has ever produced.

 

Thanks man. A lot of people told me for what I'm doing I don't want/need forged pistons. Havin trouble pulling the trigger on em. I was actually looking at those pistons (10.5:1). I also found out Delta Camshaft is like 20 minutes from my house, so I may go with either their 260 0r 272 regrind. You think springs are necessary with a hotter cam? Some say yes some say no.

 

its better to be safe than sorry. i did.