TL;DR - changed radiator, random CEL and D light flashing, CLUNK when putting in gear, turned out to be the wire harness chaffed under the intake manifold.

Hi all,

Just sharing this as we had approx. 24 hours of crises after changing the radiator on our 2000 CRV and after MUCH prayer, googling and multiple posts coming back from Honda Tech Forums, I wanted to say THANK YOU and share what I found.

Our radiator developed a crack on Thursday; no surprise it's a 16 year old car. I gave my neighbor some cash to do the job as I trust him and didn't want to dirty my hands as I was solo with my daughter while my wife was out.

He finishes and now we have CEL and flashing D light. Additionally it was shifting with a major CLUNK and not accelerating properly. Due to the number of articles, youtube videos, and overall supporting evidence, this is probably where I started going backwards to some degree.

Paperclip ODBII scan showed D - 16 flashes "AT CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOIDA" CEL - 2 flashes "ELECTRONIC LOAD DETECTOR" and 7 flashes "AT MALFUNCTION W/ AT CONTROLS"

INNO scan tool borrowed from auto parts store showed the same; erasing codes did nothing.

So I'm like what in the actual F is going on right now, what did he do, etc etc like made a voodoo doll at this point.

So I start with trying to reset the CEL via the battery, nothing. Pulled the solenoid, it's clicking, all good. Pulled the PCM to see if anything was cooked, all good, opened it and couldn't see any swollen capacitor or shot transistor, burnt copper traces, nothing.

I'm dying at this point. Next morning I marinate on it a little bit, keep looking, then find out about the "#15 Fuse" and how it protects these circuits. I was skeptical but did find that this fuse was blown. After replacing and blowing it again as soon as I turned the key, I figured something was shorted and was still a little hopeless.

I found a thread discussing the wire harness issue causing a CEL but mostly focused on O2 sensor codes. Anyway, I rooted around under the intake manifold adjusting wires and moving loom, then checked and the flashing D was gone. I cleared the CEL and it now drives fine with no lights, fuse doesn't blow.

I share this because many of the articles/solutions included replacing the PCM and/or solenoids, and I did not quickly get to the #15 fuse either through my own ignorance or just because most of the articles/KB pointed me that way, and I only stumbled upon the issue with the fuse/wire harness issue at the end of the troubleshooting process.

So with that said, thank you all for your contributions to the DIY knowledge base, without all of your willingness to share, I would probably have had the car towed to the dealership.