Okay, I have an 01 Accord 3.0L. My car has just under 120k. Runs like a champ minus having fuel vapors galor. The fuel line leaks due to rust. Gotta love the Midwest and salt. Anyway, want to do this repair myself. Want to replace the entire line. I'll be using jack stands and a creeper. Is this an easy repair/replacement. Been all over the internet researching the repair. I don't want to pay to do this. Brake lines are also showing corrosion/rust (no leaks). Quoted $800 for the fuel line, $1200 for the brake line. Also need the recommended valve adjustment $500+ . Miss working on cars... and I don't want to spend the money I have the patience and am looking to start up a new tool collection. Any suggestions, videos, diagrams recommended?

Thanks.

 

You can purchase the lines from Honda, if you go to the dealer make sure you don't get hosed with 'matrix' pricing. Just get normal/retail pricing.
Or you can use Majestic Honda and have it shipped do your door, but be weary of shipping cost.

All three fuel lines will be ~$450 retail
The two rear brake lines will be ~$360 retail
Or if you feel real adventuresome pick up some Nicopp lines, bender, pipe cutter and flaring tool to bend up some new lines yourself. Regular hard line from the parts store is a **** to bend and flare correctly.

Valve adjustment is very easy. Hondas are Legos, everything bolts together. Gaskets on the intake are reusable. I'd recommend warming up the engine slightly or doing the work after the engine has cooled down for an hour or so with the hood open. I'd also suggest using a 'green' cleaner such as Simple Green or 409 and a trip to the local coin-op car wash. Have the engine covers removed before arriving. SPray on some green cleaner, let is soak in, use the soap wand setting and blast off all the dirt/junk/oil from the engine/intake near the areas you are going to work on to prevent it from falling into the engine. You don't want to work on the engine hot, nor when it is cold as it is possible to gall the threads on the aluminum. Start working on it when it is warm to the touch, by the time you get to the valves the engine should be sufficiently cooled down to allow proper valve adjustment.
Disconnect battery.
Remove covers.
Remove sensor connections
Remove air intake to TB.
Remove hoses to TB and TPS connection.
Loosen TB bolts and nuts, tap TB with hammer handle to break free.
Unbolt upper intake and remove. Wipe down gaskets, keep them in order and cover the intake ports with clean rags/paper towels.
Clean the EGR port if it is gummed and or install the update kit tube.
98-01 V6 EGR port cleaning 99-085 - Drive Accord Honda Forums
Valve/cam cover gaskets are also reusable, just be careful when removing.
I'd suggest using a magnetic parts bowl to hold all the bolts/nuts you will be removing. There are just some areas where you cannot simply remove the fastener, remove the component and then reinstall the fastener for safe keeping. Magnetic bowl will save you some aggro.
Remove coil packs and unbolt wire harness from engine to allow freedom of movement.
Unbolt cam covers and gently prise them off.
Near where the oil dipstick is located, look on the face of the timing belt cover, there should be a rubber plug you can remove. Under this plug will be a pointer and the cam sprocket will have numbers corresponding to which cylinder is TDC. This way you adjust that cylinders valves.
I use a 10mm offset brake bleeder wrench, flathead screwdriver, and offset feeler gauges to adjust the valves. It's usually only the exhaust valves that need adjustment(too tight) intakes seem fine. Performance tools brand will only cost you ~$20 from the local ORLY store for the wrench and feeler gauges.
I'd also suggest a beam style torque wrench, it is cheap and more accurate than a click style wrench for tightening the intake and TB bolts/nuts.

Clean up the mating surfaces before installing, install is really the reverse of removal. These cars are Lego.

 

Thanks for the info. Replacing the fuel lines and brake lines would you happen to know of any videos for a 01 Accord 3.0L engine? Diagrams? Not to surgar coat it. Haven't worked on cars in about 35 years. Any simple step by step references to change the lines.

Thanks