95 civic dx destroying distributors!
I have a 95 honda dx..... d16a6 block, with d16z6 head. 5 speed.
Now the bottom half has been rebuilt. Has 3243 miles on bottom end. I had to put togather on a fly to get to work.. Which is why the head wasnt rebuilt. I dont have the p28 ecm in it yet. Which i knew my mpg would suffer but my hand was forced.
The troubles begain when i notice oil level was qt low on the stick. Found the distributer was leaking oil in and out of it. So i replaced both seals and reinstalled it. Held oil for a day then it started leaking again. So i replaced them again with honda mechanic. (Incase i messed up) same result again. So i ordered a reman dizzy and replaced it. Same thing started leaking after a day again. So i ordereda dizzy from honda. Replaced it, and disassmbled both remaned and old distributer. I noticed in the old one the case and shaft had a slight scaring ing the metal. The reman was chewed up in both case and dizzy shaft. So i drove with the new one in about a day and it happoned again! And its chewed as well.........
The only thing i can think of is that the cam shaft may be toast, or the head?........or mabe has something to due with the vetec not hooked up yet?
I know im going to have to replace the dizzy again. But trying to figure this out with out killing my wallet.
* all the local mechanic shops and honda dealer thinks what i think- bad head. In that case i plan to replace with a d16y7 head to bypass getting a p28 ecm. But before i make moves i wanted to see if anyone may know whats going on or just confirm what i think i know.......im chevy man....so honda is a little foggy to me.......any ideas would be a big help and thanks in advance.
Now the bottom half has been rebuilt. Has 3243 miles on bottom end. I had to put togather on a fly to get to work.. Which is why the head wasnt rebuilt. I dont have the p28 ecm in it yet. Which i knew my mpg would suffer but my hand was forced.
The troubles begain when i notice oil level was qt low on the stick. Found the distributer was leaking oil in and out of it. So i replaced both seals and reinstalled it. Held oil for a day then it started leaking again. So i replaced them again with honda mechanic. (Incase i messed up) same result again. So i ordered a reman dizzy and replaced it. Same thing started leaking after a day again. So i ordereda dizzy from honda. Replaced it, and disassmbled both remaned and old distributer. I noticed in the old one the case and shaft had a slight scaring ing the metal. The reman was chewed up in both case and dizzy shaft. So i drove with the new one in about a day and it happoned again! And its chewed as well.........
The only thing i can think of is that the cam shaft may be toast, or the head?........or mabe has something to due with the vetec not hooked up yet?
I know im going to have to replace the dizzy again. But trying to figure this out with out killing my wallet.
* all the local mechanic shops and honda dealer thinks what i think- bad head. In that case i plan to replace with a d16y7 head to bypass getting a p28 ecm. But before i make moves i wanted to see if anyone may know whats going on or just confirm what i think i know.......im chevy man....so honda is a little foggy to me.......any ideas would be a big help and thanks in advance.
If it's really leaking from the distributor, it would be simply because you're buying lousy remans. The new no-name ones coming from China are actually pretty good knockoffs.
Check the VTEC solenoid closely for leaks because it can put a lot of oil into that general area.
Check the VTEC solenoid closely for leaks because it can put a lot of oil into that general area.
The last dizzy i bought was new from the honda dealer. In case i was getting knock offs online. And it still suffered the same fate as the others. Leaking inside of cap and at the o ring seal......shaft was chewed along with the case of the dizzy when i took it apart. The vtec s. I check for leaks none there. While running it was a steady drip coming from distributor's o ring and had a little oil inside the cap. The inside seal of the distributors of the last two didnt look damaged in anyway but in the same area where shaft meets case inside the dizzy it was scarred up (behide inside seal) i'll try the gets pics when i can.......to me it acts like the distributors shaft is in a bind. Grinding the shqft to the case. But bolts flush into the head. The honda dealer install the one i ordered there. I install the first two..........no other oil leaks found.......and my receipt for the z6 head is over 260k miles on it w/o rebuild. Maybe that info is useable.....engine dont exhaust any blue smoke....so i believe the valve seals are good. I did not not resurfaced head or block. But comp- is even and strong in all cyclinders. And no mixing of fluids or over heating.
Hope these details helps
Hope these details helps
That sucks that your engine is eating distributors including brand new OEM.
All I can think of is that the distributor is no longer indexing to the camshaft levelly.
At the RPM the camshaft and the distributor spin I would think it would be hard on the distributor bearing if the mating points were not in line i.e ^ instead of --
Addendum... After looking at a Honda dizzy rebuild video, I see the double tang key on the dizzy is on a pin so it can flex some just for the level indexing variation.
Can you take pictures of where your scoring of the shaft is occurring? All that is left is contamination if it's inside the dizzy that is scored on the shaft. And what I could see, the outside the dizzy part of the shaft isn't really exposed.
Unless your double tang key is rocking so much on the shaft and pin that it can score the shaft?
All I can think of is that the distributor is no longer indexing to the camshaft levelly.
At the RPM the camshaft and the distributor spin I would think it would be hard on the distributor bearing if the mating points were not in line i.e ^ instead of --
Addendum... After looking at a Honda dizzy rebuild video, I see the double tang key on the dizzy is on a pin so it can flex some just for the level indexing variation.
Can you take pictures of where your scoring of the shaft is occurring? All that is left is contamination if it's inside the dizzy that is scored on the shaft. And what I could see, the outside the dizzy part of the shaft isn't really exposed.
Unless your double tang key is rocking so much on the shaft and pin that it can score the shaft?
Last edited by TomCat39; Mar 22, 2017 at 06:06 PM.
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