I have my entire shifter assembly hooked to the trans off the car and can shift into all gears even with the case off - but i only see the main shaft changing gears with the case OFF with no gear hangups..(it changes through all gears smoothly with case on as well) Does the case need to be on for the countershaft to shift as well?

Do the synchro sleeves always have some side to side play when the shift fork assembly isn't on them?

Everything checks out clearance wise, ive gone over it over and over; I'm just curious about these 2 things.

 

It can't be properly tested with the case off, it has to be on.

Define side to side play, it could mean a number of things so clarification will help.

 

Sorry- i meant up and down and its only on one of em- It stays in place in 4th or 5th once put in its place but it seems very loose.

All i should worry about, bench shifting wise, is that it smoothly shifts into all gears? Ive read people cant get into reverse or 5th but i am using my actual shift linkage so is that why its easier? (this was before i took trans apart it shifted into all gears fine; i just don't know the mileage so I'm changing bearings and seals)

 

Some play is normal. Without the shift fork controlling the slider, it will have the area between the synchro springs + synchro clearance for free movement. Once it is engaged over the synchro spring it will have a small amount of play if the spring is in good condition. The S20 uses internal detents so even with the case off once it is in gear it should stay in that position.

Bench testing it should shift into all gears (even without a linkage) and spin freely in every gear with no strange noises.

 

Aqua did you see the video link i attached? that's not too much play on the 4-5 slider? seems excessive.

Do you change the friction dampers every build? and the locknut 22mm?

 

That is normal without the shafts and forks installed in the case. I change the friction dampers if they are damaged or hardened. Lock nut gets changed if the old detent will damage the countershaft threads or if the old detent lines up here the new one needs to be.

 

Thanks , good to know !

Any way to remove the countershaft lower case bearing without a slide hammer? (I've searched online everywhere) I don't mind damaging the plastic oil plate piece under it, as i can get a new one for 3 bucks. This is the only thing holding me back from starting the rebuild. Took DAYS of cleaning out the cases spotlessly.

 

I use a Snap-On blind hole puller. Renting a slide hammer is much cheaper.

 

Aqua- i have a 93 clutch fork and a 97- the 93 is beat up bad where the bearing mounts to its ends, so i wanna use the 97, which is exact in size, but the spring clip in it goes in upside down compared to the 93 fork- i test fitted this and it doesnt seem to matter but i do not have a throwout bearing yet to fully test- does it matter? will this 97 spring and fork work fine for the 93 trans? its in stronger spring condition than the 93 of course too.

 

They are the same. If there is any wear or cracks on the fork order a new one. It's not very common, but they can fail in pretty spectacular fashion.