Is this the right distributor for my mpfi swap? I'm not getting spark. I just bought this new one and it's not identical.

 

Aftermarket?
did you blnot compare the TD numbers to your OEM one?

 

Helps to know what motor and ECU the distributor is for. OBD1, OBD2a OBD2b etc.

So much information missing to know what distributor should be used.

 

I did thanks the original behind the new one is td02 which is right for my mpfi swap. I don't mean to troll but mpfi swap usually means d15b2 with pm6.

 

Lastly, what car is this going into?

I suspect your thread is in the wrong section.

The hybrid section is likely more appropriate than this one.

D15B2 was before 92, which is the D15B7/B8, Z1 and D16Z6 which if I recall are already all MPFI setups.

 

Ef sedan. y'all can delete this one thanks👌

 

Thank you, it is in the incorrect section.

Would you prefer this thread int he EF section or the Hybrid section?

 

Yes actually I'm about to test resistance in the plug wires.

 

Would help if I could spell. Should be conversion. My typo.

 

Try one of these for testing spark.

 

Yesterday I tested my old distributor at these two screws the one on the left had constant power and the one on the right flashed as I cranked it and my cousin said she saw spark when she put it in the hole in the second picture but when I swapped the rotor and cap right after I still didn't get spark and I took off the cap again and got the same result at the screws but no spark from the IDK I think the hole for the igniter

 

Uggh I'll post the picture I just tried to post when I get back home from returning this dizzy. I installed the copper "striker" on the rotor on the same side as the small line on the opposite side of the distributor where it goes into the motor.

 

That small line on the left of the center shaft. I put the copper part of the distributor rotor on the same side of the line if you know what i mean

 

Rotor should only be able to be installed one way no? Doesn't the shaft on the rotor side have a flat spot on it?

 

Actually it doesn't. it's could possibly be taken off "the rotor" and the shaft spun 180 and it would still install. a new one I picked up had the rotor installed the way I installed it some I'm comfortable with it . I tested my old and new dizzy and self determined that my dizzy is OK 😵 I tested the voltage at the plugs and the was voltage but very little like 2v Max I'm trying to find out how much should be there.

 

Update on possibly why my car won't start bc of the mistakes I've found that I made. I have hopefully one more question before I try and start it again. when it comes to wires from the dizzy to the ecu. pins c1 c2 c3 c4 b10 and b12. is it OK if I get c1 and c2 mixed up or c3 and c4k?

 

Im stuck I've found three different pin out's for my distributor wiring.I'll post pictures of the ones I found and a picture I drew of how my plug to the distributor is actually wired up. I asked about switching or getting wires switched but from what I see on the other pinouts 12 2 and 4 are in a row even when it's 2 12 then 4 so I'll follow that pattern. having 4 2 or 12 on the top row and 3 1 and 10 on bottom as displayed in the pictures. I'm stuck bc in my head I'm thinking. I didn't switch where the sensors are in the distributor why can the wires be swapped

 

In the last picture 5 out of 7 wires are labeled the two furthest to the right are extended into the car. Every write up I've read suggest wires from the distributor for c1 and c2 be extended into the car. I used this picture and checked for continuity from the plug for/to the distributor to the end of the engine harness. I drew another pictures to show you where the wires on the distributor plug go to the harness plug. like I stated before the two wires not labeled are extended and go into the car but do I hook them up to c1 and 2 like the write ups say or to b10 and b12