Alright guys, I have a 2001 Honda Accord EX with a 5-speed. I need help deciding which is better (cost wise and power wise), swap in a JDM H22 or leaving the stock F23 and turbocharging it. I was looking at YouTube videos about both, but I can't decide which is better. The H22 swap seems complicated, but I heard the gears are longer and it has more pull from the jump. After swapping it in, I would turbocharge it, so both motors will be turbocharged either way.

What do you guys think?

 

Do the H22 swap. Dont waste your money on a turbo set on that stock motor. Make it a H2B swap.

 

Ugh. It's 2017 and information about this stuff is everywhere. This question has been asked for nearly the past 20 years now. Sounds like you need to do more than just watch youtube videos on the subject and do some actual research on what goes into turbocharging and the pros/cons of each engine/setup. There is a ton of information on this site alone. If a simple H22 swap sounds complicated to you, you should not even be considering turbocharging anything. Also, longer gears are detrimental to anything but gas mileage in these cars. They are 4 cylinders with limited torque bands that take great advantage of the torque multiplication as a result of shorter gearing. The F23 you have now has more "from the jump" as it is because of the larger displacement, but lacks the high end of the H22.

To put it bluntly, turbocharging the F23 you have(assuming it's healthy) will yield the most performance per dollar and crap all over a stock H22 swap. Swapping a stock H22 and then turbocharging it is going to be a huge waste of money because both of the engines, in stock form, have very similar strength limits so with a basic setup you're not going to go much faster with one over the other. Swapping in a stock H22 and keeping it NA will probably be the most reliable of all the options here.

Please point me in the direction of this mystical H2B kit for the 98-02 Accord.

 

Well I know there isn't a kit for the transmission mount made. That is the only issue not fully mounting onto the 98-02 Accord. But in today's world, we can easily get a custom mount made that will be good enough. Back then it would cost a lot but now it's easily accessible to get a mount done. I knew of a guy who had it done for his 02' Accord and never gave him issues. But I agree with Aradin, go NA route. It will cost less and have less headaches. This is what i have in my 02' Accord currently and make 243 WHP and 196 WTQ.

Motor:
-H22a Euro R Complete W/ LSD Transmission
-Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold
-Skunk2 Pro 1 Cam Gears
-Skunk2 Valve Spring and Retainers
-Wossner 87mm 12:1 Pistons
-Hytech headers Heat Protection Wrapped
-3'' Custom piping from headers to exhaust
-Vibrant Exhaust
-AEM Fuel Rail
-ID 1000c Injectors
-Marshall Fuel Pressure Gauge
-Walbro Fuel Pump
-Custom Intake
-Custom Oil Catch Can
-RYWIRE Coil Plate
-RSX Coil Ignition
-MISHIMOTO Radiator w/Fans
-Custom AN fitting Coolant lines
-TODA Racing Timing Belt
-New Water Pump
-INNOVATE Motor Mounts
-S300 HONDATA ECU

Transmission:
-Euro R LSD Trans
-JUN Hyper Lightweight Clutch Kit W/ JUN Light weight Flywheel
-99' Prelude SH Axels

 

I would agree with Aradin as well, H22 swap is well documented and supported. You can simply use a prelude ECU and be done with it. I was going to suggest H23A-Vtec since in my opinion its slightly better and cheaper but then you run into issues with the IACV(I still don't see Roskos adapter plate for sale) issues with the injectors and manifold(I didn't have any issues since I stuck with the h23a stock parts) and lastly the tune, you will definitely need to hit the dyno to get reliable tune.

Just a note, Single cam vtec is nothing like dual cam Vtec, you will love the H22.

Going turbo takes away the reliability. I know there are plenty of people that run them daily and have no issues but all it takes is one misstep and suddenly you have no ring lands on your pistons. Its really just playing with fire(well I guess that's how an engine works anyway). Sticking with a H22 and prelude ecu(P13?) you should have an engine that will reliably do another 100-150,000 miles without dyno tuning and Wideband/Fuel pressure gauge/vacuum gauge and chipped ECU.