Looking for a diy guide or video for steps on how to replace my clutch in my 1994 Civic 1.5l non vtec. It's 100% stock. Prefer pictures as well.

Thank you!

 

This: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tions-1998336/
Links to: Civic Flywheel/Clutch Install (58 pics)

 

whats with all of the spoon feeding requests lately?

1. remove **** attached to transmission
2. remove transmission
3. remove old clutch/pressure plate
4. put it back together
5. take time to google/forum search/ANYTHING before asking for help. specific question? fire away. "im too lazy to do anything"? no thanks.

 

Eric the car guy made a clutch video (B-series, but same process). Only downside is you have to purchase it. It's like $15 or so.





eH.

 

how is this spoon feeding? I asked for a diy, not to come do it for me. I'm new to hondas. What's with everyone being dicks lately?

 

because diy's exist both on this forum and google. you didnt even bother to take 30 seconds to look.

 

It would be wise to invest in a Factory Service Manual(FSM). It will save you a lot of headache. Also, there are PDF file on google you can download for your car year.. I suggest you try that, see if its something you want to tackle it yourself or not. I did clutch/flywheel on my gsr for the first time last month. But then again I did a lot of homework, purchased a FSM, watch YouTube video. Read the manual over and over again until I fully understand. Visually looking at the tranny a long side the manual. It wasn't bad at all. Pretty straightforward. I felt comfortable doing it but like I said, I did my homework. Leave plenty of time for the task.
Watch the YouTube video of clutch replacement on the b series. Steps are similar. Basically the same.

 

Assuming you are doing this at home with the car on jack stands, consider the following shortcuts:

You don't need to remove the left axle. Pop it loose from the transmission. When you remove transmission it will slide out. Remember to pre-engage it before moving the transmission completely back into place. Usually you can get it fully snapped back in with a block of wood and a hammer on the outside edge of the inner CV joint cup. If that doesn't work, undo the ball joint and slam it in in the usual way.

You will need to pull the right axle fully out of the transmission before removing transmission by removing the wheel, undo the ball joint and swing the knuckle out. It is helpful but not essential to remove the axle entirely from the car by removing the nut (if you choose that route, take off the nut first).

You don't need to undo the moving part of the shift linkage (bitch pin). You can set the transmission on the ground with that part attached. Do detach the stationary part that goes back to the shift lever (torque rod).

No need to disconnect the clutch hydraulic line. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the bell housing and move it aside. Make sure no one presses the clutch pedal while the car is in this condition.