Weird heat issue...
96 2.2l vtec.. new rad new cap new thermo and top rad hose... car has little to no heat top hose gets hot lower hose gets Luke warm rad cap is cold.. both heater hoses are warm to/from heater core....what's going on? Tried leaving cap off to bleed out the air but it bubbles out after only running for maybe 45 seconds to 1 minute... also get straight coolant from the bleeder valve... need help its cold out and I have to put my kids in here
Verify the heater core i open and open the bleeder screw again with the engine off.
If solid stream and full coolant, close bleeder and rad cap, turn engine on and allow it to warm up. If you live in a very cold climate you may have to partially block the rad to keep the car properly heated up.
If solid stream and full coolant, close bleeder and rad cap, turn engine on and allow it to warm up. If you live in a very cold climate you may have to partially block the rad to keep the car properly heated up.
Verify the heater core i open and open the bleeder screw again with the engine off.
If solid stream and full coolant, close bleeder and rad cap, turn engine on and allow it to warm up. If you live in a very cold climate you may have to partially block the rad to keep the car properly heated up.
If solid stream and full coolant, close bleeder and rad cap, turn engine on and allow it to warm up. If you live in a very cold climate you may have to partially block the rad to keep the car properly heated up.
Have someone move the "****" inside the car from cold to hot as you watch the valve, verify the "arm" on the valve is moving all the way, there is a little "fold over" clamp that holds the cable on a bracket right at the valve you can pop off then remove the cable from the valve and open/close it manually if needed.
Then as Mike suggested, re-bleed the system. Only a few things I do different than what he posted....
Only put the rad cap back on to the "first click", yes you might lose a little coolant but it helps in letting some of the air out as well.
.
Turning off the blower motor inside the car helps - a little - in letting the engine/coolant heat up...the heater core is a mini radiator so blowing air across that mini cooler......you get the idea.
Once the temp gauge is at normal op temp, feel the heater hoses in three places. Into the heater control valve, out of the control valve and then the other one from the heater core. They should all be around the same temp....if you have an IFR temp reader that would be best but the old time "hand" temp gauge should work fine.
Then as Mike suggested, re-bleed the system. Only a few things I do different than what he posted....
Only put the rad cap back on to the "first click", yes you might lose a little coolant but it helps in letting some of the air out as well.
.
Turning off the blower motor inside the car helps - a little - in letting the engine/coolant heat up...the heater core is a mini radiator so blowing air across that mini cooler......you get the idea.
Once the temp gauge is at normal op temp, feel the heater hoses in three places. Into the heater control valve, out of the control valve and then the other one from the heater core. They should all be around the same temp....if you have an IFR temp reader that would be best but the old time "hand" temp gauge should work fine.
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