So after my 95 Accord EX Wagon auto to manual swap was totaled I took my wife's 97 EX wagon auto to drive. After a few months a couldn't stand driving the boring auto anymore and decided to move forward with a 5 spreed swap on the 97 as well. I acquired a 94 Accord LX 5 speed car for only $300 as the donor car. I wasn't sure if it would make it the 15 minute drive home but the transmission shifted smoothly. I followed the same lines as my previous swap but did everything start to finish over three days. I've completed the swap. It is getting an alignment at firestone right now. I think I still have some air in my clutch line because the engagement of the clutch is so close to the floor and will be doing a vertical bleed to make sure i get it all out when I get the car back later today. I had to tighten a belt and replace one because the manual starter starts much faster and caused a couple seconds of squealing when starting. I got a 37820-P0H-L02 ECU from ebay. its the OBD-II VTEC Manual ECU. I swapped the bezel from the manual gauge cluster and removed the gear indicator light bulbs to keep my original miles gauge cluster but make it look like a manual cluster. I installed a new clutch and flywheel. I transferred over all the clutch lines, master and slave from the donor car. I also used the rear engine mount and bracket from the donor car. I also bought new axles due to the donor car not having a ABS ring and my other axle boot being broken.


Only issue I seem to be having is poping the CEL codes p0450, p0453 for EVAP high pressure. I will have to go back and see if I left anything disconnected. does anyone have any knowledge on what I should be looking for with these codes.?

 

So I wasn't able to find anything disconnected anywhere so I tried putting the original auto tranny ecu back in and it starts and runs without activating the CEL (other that a code for missing auto transmission signals). To me this seems like confirmation that the ECU I bought on Ebay is causing the problem. It is a 37820-P0H-L02 ECU. From what I understand this or a 37820-P0H-L01 ECU is the correct ECU for a 96-97 2.2L VTEC 5-speed.

Can anyone think of any other reason the ECU I put in is activating the CEL when the original doesn't before I return the ECU?

 

Ok so apparently I assisted someone with the issue previously and forgot about it.

96 Accord Wagon LX ECU Replacement

Also, from 1996 accord LX/EX p0450

Apparently Accord wagons do not have this sensor.

AccordWagonClub

From what I understand there were no 96-97 OBD-II Accord EX Wagons made with a 5-speed, only an automatic transmission. This means there are no direct matching ECUs for me to use for this swap.

My previous auto-manual swap was on an OBD-I 95 Accord Wagon EX and I used a 37820-P0A-A01 ECU. I wonder if OBD-I coupe/sedans/wagons did not have this sensor on any of the cars since that ECU part number on HondaPartsNow.com says its for 2/4/5 door Accord EX Manual Transmission.

It looks like I'll have to find a way to trick the ECU into thinking it is receiving that signal. A mod to trick the ECU is detailed in the AccordWagonClub link in this post. I guess I'll just have to try that.

Some alternative solutions are also listed on FF-Squad.net although this is specifically geared towards Civics it would probably apply to my Accord as well.

SUGGESTED FIXES

1. Change the ecu
   The easiest fix, is to use an ECU (keeping within your particular OBD2 version) that doesn't look for FTP sensor. Mainly, a JDM ecu would be of choice, because they are programmed not to look for an FTP sensor.
   NOTE: using a JDM OBD2 ecu will not allow you to pass smog, in California at least.
2. Change the gas tank
   This is the next best possible solution for alleviation of code 91. Swap out your gas tank for one respective your vehicle type, that has an FTP sensor. Such as running a 99 Si coupe fuel tank on a 97 civic CX or DX. You will more than likley have to wire in the FTP sensor along with adding the FTP equipped gas tank too.
3. Fool the ecu
   We fool the ECU by providing a similar voltage that the FTP would normally send -- this happens to be around 2.5v. You need to acquire a 10k linear potentiometer: Radio Shack Part Number 271-1715.
   The outter 2 pins are going to be +5v reference and ground (does not matter which), while the center pin will be your output feeding back to the ECU pinout.
   
   (Before you hook up the pot's center pin to the ECU, use a multimeter to adjust the output to 2.5v.)
   
   Here are the 96-98 civic & integra ECU pin assignments:
   D10: +5v
   D15: FTP input
   D11: GroundHere are the 99-00 civic & 99-01 integra ECU pin assignments:
   C28: +5v
   A29: FTP input
   C18: Ground
4. Convert to OBD1
   This will totally eliminate any code 91 issues altogether. This is the most expensive way out of all 4 of these solutions because you would obviously need to purchase an OBD1 ecu and OBD2a or OBD2b to OBD1 ecu jumper harness. OBD1 programming does not look for an FTP sensor at all.
5. The Trey Way
   I stumbled upon the 'Trey way' (as I like to put it) after reading his OBD2a EK B-series swap article. He mentions a temporary trick in defeating the Code 91 issue. An excerpt from his swap article mentions this:
   " I found a way to get around the code but isn't a true fix. This only happens when the car has been sitting for a long time like over night. You have to put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position (radio on, but the car is off), and count to 10 slowly then crank the car. That will pressurize the fuel lines and the code will not come on."

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

There have been reports, that while this fix works on a relatively full tank, empty tanks seem to trigger a code. Even though you've now provided the input, sometimes the ECU looks for a change in that input and you're providing something constant now.

 

I followed the directions posted on the FF-Squad site and it worked! No check engine light anymore. I adjusted the output to 2.51v before inserting the new pin into the ecu harness.