Recently had the clutch pedal bracket snap, planning to have it rewelded. Does anyone have a picture of how the brake pedal attaches to the master cylinder? Found a thread on here that shows the locations of all the bolts on the bracket, but it didn't mention how to get the brake pedal off so the bracket can be completely removed. Also, if anyone has one for sale let me know, mine is pretty bent and I'm not sure how repairing it will go.

 

Update; Managed to get the cotter pin and bolt thing that hold the brake pedal to the booster off, also got the clutch cable and throttle cable off. I took off the 6 bolts in the picture, but the pedals still do not want to come out. Is there and other bolts holding it on, or is it just stuck on there from age?

 

If I remember right, it was just those 6 bolts and the cotter pin for the brake booster, then slide the brake booster out just enough so the pedals can move around. I had to try rotating the assembly a few different ways before it was finally free. I took mine out by removing the dash though, not sure if you are going under the dash.

 

I am working under the dash, I didn't feel like taking the risk of making my car look any more ghetto than it already is xD How is the repaired bracket holding up on your car? I heard the STD has a weaker bracket than the other trims, how much reinforcing did you do to it?

 

I really hope that's not the case... lol. The 89 is original AFAIK (ticking bomb I'm thinking). 91 was supposedly fixed and reinforced before purchase.
I had to fix the dx not long after buying it. I took the dash out because I didn't want to screw up my back laying on the floor. Mine just had a snapped bolt with the bracket still in-tact. I took it to a tuner shop and the guy just welded a new bolt in.

Here's a pic of that mess. Good times.

 

I'm pretty sure the DPFI cars had a weaker bracket than the MPFI cars from the factory. I'm really hoping i can just weld it back, it's pretty bent up but I'm not looking forward to paying $100+ at the dealership for a new one, and I can't sit around waiting for one to come up for sale. Pulling that dash definitely looks like a mess, all i removed was the drivers seat to make it easier. The last bolt I have is the one way up top above the brake pedal that I'm hoping to get out tomorrow. You know if that's the one they say is behind the vent tube? Also, on a stock clutch don't worry too much about it breaking, mine just went at 299,xxx miles.

 

I paid 50 at the tuner shop. Some of them might even reinforce it if you ask.
I believe that bolt is above the vent tube. You might be able to pull the dash out just enough to move the vent out of the way.

My dx has a strange clutch. When I swapped it to the 89, it was glazed which means it was probably slipping which would then explain the shaky take-offs. However, it still seems to work just fine because the pressure plate is extremely strong (I can feel more resistance compared to the original clutch on the 4-spd). This might be why the bracket broke on the dx, and now that I think about it this will probably happen on the 89 if something isn't done... Anyway, it broke when it had ~230K.

 

How many miles do you have on your STD? I was hoping to take mine to 400k before it blew up and i had to find another motor to put in it.I found that last bolt by the way, and now am pulling the dash because there's no way I'm getting it with the dash on.

 

My 89 has 232K. I think it's mostly highway miles since it lived in he country side most of its life. However, I just discovered an oil leak around where the head mates with the block. When it revs, it leaks and sprays on the cat. It still runs ok for now. I haven't figured out if it's a crack or a leaky gasket.
The dx went 250K before blowing the head gasket only because I forgot to turn on the radiator fan while sitting in traffic one day.

I think as long as the motor was well cared for, it should last a while.

 

Pretty sure leaking oil is a common at higher miles, mine leaks from the rear main and the whatever the seal on the other side of the crank is (never cared about fixing it enough to look it up). There's a bit of piston slap when the car is cold (or it could be the valves, once again haven;t had time or energy to sort it out) but other than that it runs like a top. I pity anyone who had to use the STD for a highway commute, I actively avoid freeways in mine just because it feels so unhappy at 75 or above.

 

I've dealt with enough of them lol.
Mine still leaks from the oil pan, front seal (what you are probably referring to), and now somewhere from the head. When I first bought it, there was a bad coolant leak from the aluminum piece that is tied to the intake and the valve gasket was still original. I could see smoke coming out from the sides of the hood because of that leak, even at highway speeds.
Ever since the transmission swap, it has been more enjoyable to drive long distances. I keep it at 65 most of the time. It also has decent passing power now so I'm not so nervous passing someone on a 2-lane road.

 

Ok, so I'm still working on that top bolt, and it's giving me a hell of a time. I know it's behind the vent tube there, I've tried taking off the dash to get at it but there's switches for an alarm wired to the dash that I can't just unplug so i can only get the dash about 6 inches away before i can't move it back any more. I've tried pulling the vent tube out, but i can't seem to get it to budge. Is it secured on the side near the vent? I got the side that's on the middle to come off, but I can't seem to get it out. And suggestions?

 

I honestly don't remember how those vents hook up. I haven't messed with that area in years.
For removing the dash, part of the harness is screwed to the back of the dash. This may be why you can't pull it out. I think there's only 2 screws.
For your alarm, if the switches are in those 2 expansion covers (not sure what they're called) next to the left vent, you can pop them out and push them through the dash.

 

I managed to yank the vent out. There wasn't any screws, just had to pull pretty hard to wiggle the damn thing out. All 7 of the bolts are out now, and the pedals are off the studs. I have the brake booster pulled out as far as i can before i feel resistance, but it's still to far in to let me get the pedals off. The studs the nuts go onto are completely out on the other side of the firewall, but the part where the pedal hooks up is still sticking out. Is there anything else that holds the booster in place, or will i just have to pull harder to get it out?

 

You sure you got the cotter pin all the way out? That's what stopped me. Aside from that, try twisting the assembly.

 

The cotter pin on the brake pedal? Yes, I got the cotter pin and the little bolt thing all the way out. Just want to make sure i won't break anything if I pull it out farther.