Integra Type R vs Gsr
I have a couple of questions for you guys..
What would you prefer and why..
A stock USDM GSR motor and $1500 to play with.
or
A stock USDM ITR motor and no money..
With that $1500, could you make the GSR much faster than the ITR?
I am asking serious questions so please dont flame. TIA
What would you prefer and why..
A stock USDM GSR motor and $1500 to play with.
or
A stock USDM ITR motor and no money..
With that $1500, could you make the GSR much faster than the ITR?
I am asking serious questions so please dont flame. TIA
Youll need way more than 1500 
The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do
Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set

The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do

Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set
hes talking about just the engine not the whole car.
Youll need way more than 1500 
The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do
Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set

The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do

Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set
for straight line speed both these cars are the wrong way to go. Just get a hatch and go that route. If you like the way the integra looks do LS/VTEC cheaper, or B20/VTEC.
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Doing a proper LS/VTEC is not going to cost much (if any) less than a GS-R swap. But it probably would give a little more bang for the buck.
$1500 bucks pretty much only gets you the very basic bolt-on mods for the B18C1. For an extra $1500 I'd rather have the stock B18C5 (important question: is this just a longblock swap or a engine+transmission deal?).
$1500 bucks pretty much only gets you the very basic bolt-on mods for the B18C1. For an extra $1500 I'd rather have the stock B18C5 (important question: is this just a longblock swap or a engine+transmission deal?).
Youll need way more than 1500 
The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do
Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set

The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do

Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set
Youll need way more than 1500 
The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do
Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set

The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do

Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set

hes talking about motors dude.
Doing a proper LS/VTEC is not going to cost much (if any) less than a GS-R swap. But it probably would give a little more bang for the buck.
$1500 bucks pretty much only gets you the very basic bolt-on mods for the B18C1. For an extra $1500 I'd rather have the stock B18C5 (important question: is this just a longblock swap or a engine+transmission deal?).
$1500 bucks pretty much only gets you the very basic bolt-on mods for the B18C1. For an extra $1500 I'd rather have the stock B18C5 (important question: is this just a longblock swap or a engine+transmission deal?).
I am just trying to see the ITR vs GSR comparison, the good points and the bad. So as of now it looks like the ITR is the best IMO at what I am looking for. Also the setup is going to be NA.
If youre just going to do just basic boltons cams etc spend the money and buy the C5. The tranny and the lsd are very important. If youre going to do a full rebuild and go all out save your money and build a b20 vtec imo. Here is my old recipe from my gsr days to run with neck and neck with an itr: jdm header 2.5 carsound cat, quality exhaust, cai, clutch, flywheel, si tranny, vafc. This puts you around the same whp as a stock itr motor with the same gearing minus the lsd after 2k spent. If the itr motor has boltons obviously it will make more power. Imo the gsr is just isnt worth it when you can buy an itr swap for 1500 more.
Youll need way more than 1500 
The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do
Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set
how is the gsr harder to drive than a type R??

The thing is that the Type R has many things that cannot be replicated easily, like extra weld points to make body stiffer and such. Get the Type R and dont suffer the way i do

Key thing is that the GSR is harder to drive than a Type R, master a GSR then move to a Type R and your set
how is the gsr harder to drive than a type R??
On topic, I'd build a damn nice CRVTEC and settle for the GSR tranny rather than dump the change people are asking for full B18C/B18C5 swaps these days


