I recently purchased a 93 Civic CX for my daily/beater.
I'm planning on keeping a maintenance/build log in this thread.
Keep in mind that this thread might move pretty slow.....

According to the Carfax report, this car has clean title wo accident.
Engine is on it's last leg and it burns plenty of oil under acceleration, and it's probably valve seals or piston rings.
I dunno what I'm gonna do with the car just yet but in the long run, I'll fix this car up pretty nice.
I'm a long time Honda lover and I've owned plenty of them previously.

My current project car is an S2000 and I'm planning on doing a full STR spec build
Build Thread Here
Also 2000 Mazda Miata with a K24/20 Frankenstein swap. I sold this car to buy my current S2000.
Build Thread Here

Purchased on 11/20/2016

Car came with the integra wheels.




Somebody swapped in an engine, it's a D16Y7

 

Wow that's a clean hatch. Keeps the pics coming.

 

Thanks!

Update:
-Headlight Buzzer

Progress on this car is extra slow since this is my main beater atm.
Couple of days ago, I accidentally left my headlight on and got stranded so to prevent that from ever happening I made me a headlight buzzer.

Went down to a local radio shack and purchased the buzzer parts.
Total cost was about $14. These parts can be sourced for less than half the price if you shop around. But I wanted a day project which kind of left me wo options.
-breadboard
-relay
-buzzer
-euro terminal


wiring:
It's a simple 3 wire setup.
tapped parking light RED/BLK and ground BLK from behind the dimmer switch.
IGN YEL/BLK from the main relay.


video of the buzzer in action:

On to the case design.
Used fusion 360 to design a simple case. I'm a noob so this is best I can do atm.


printed and installed.

 

Very cool! I love the homemade stuff.

 

There are some DIYs using OEM parts to add a headlight-on buzzer, but you went the homemade route. Curious, but I can dig it.

 

Update:
-New acquisition!

OK! Finally found the donor car for the lows.
This car is in really bad shape esthetically but engine seems strong
I'll probably do a compression test on it sometime soon to make sure.

Somebody did a JDM b18 swap and it has a S1 cable tranny.
Current tranny grinds pretty badly going into 3rd gear.
But the owner included a hydro b-series tranny with the sale.

Here she is
94 Acura Integra Unknown Trim... lol...




S on the jack stands and hatch chilling in the garage.


Greasy mess!


Extra parts including all of the hydro conversion stuff and some no brand clutch.

 

Nice pickup on the Teg. You could also pull the rear trailing arms for the disc brake conversion and the front hubs for the bigger brake assembly.

 

Thanks! That was the exactly the reason why I was looking for one.

 

Update:
-Dismantling
-Scavenging
-Farewell

Last week I started to disassemble the Integra.

Engine is out


Car on the dolly after the suspension removal.
2x $20 dolly I bought from Lowes was good enough to support the car's weight. I was able to move it around in the garage with a bit of effort.



After scavenging said "goodbye" to a 2 week old car and sent it off.


Scavenged Parts List (some are not pictured)
-Brake Booster/Master Cylinder
-40/40 Proportional Valve (this part was inside the trunk, I'm guessing previous owner had plans to remove ABS system)
-Some no brand poly motor mount
-Some no brand clutch kit
-Gauge Cluster
-GC Coilover sleeves on OEM shocks (got lucky on this)
-Rear trailing Arms (both bushings are busted)
-Front Knuckles (Lower ball joint is bad)
-P75 OBD1 ECU
-Shift Linkage
-Pedal Assembly
-Hydraulic clutch assembly
-Engine B18B1
-2x Tranny (S1 and other no marking)
-Extra stuff like hood/switch assembly for quick cash

 

Update:
-Disassembling Engine

Engine on the stand


This engine was leaking oil from the cam seal, I opened up the valve cover and a surprise was waiting for me....
Cam journal close to the leaking cam seal was missing a bolt!
Tried to remove the other bolt and it snapped.... err.....
My guess is the bolt was probably stressed due to only one side being tighten down.


At this point I thought to myself.... I'm so screwed and head is probably useless...
But luckily the snapped bolts weren't seized up in the hole and I was able to extract them out.
It took awhile but at the end, I was very happy


Removed the head to see how the pistons/cylinder walls look.
No more cross hatch pattern left on the walls but at least the walls were smooth without any signs of scorning.
Piston tops looked really good.



Done for the day

 

Update:
-more disassembly

I decided on the route I want to take for this rebuild.
Sorry to disappoint people but I'm just going to do a simple re-ring/new bearing for this engine rebuild.
I thought about a full on rebuild with all new stuff but...
1. This is a daily beater
2. I want to use regular gas instead of premium... lol... (my other two cars drink premium)
3. MUCH cheaper rebuild cost
4. MUCH faster rebuild time.
5. This is a B18B1 for god sakes.... not going to win any contest even with a fully built engine.
6. If I were to go all out on this car, I will probably end up swapping a K24 or at least a B20VTEC.

For all these reasons, I'm going to just re-ring/new bearing and call it a day.

Crank holding tool.
This simple tool is so much better than the traditional honda style crank holding tool.
Does not require to use 2x breaker bar and can loosen both flywheel bolts and crank pulley nut in one shot.
I used this tool for k24 build but I'm pretty sure it's compatible with different manufacturer engine as well.


Inspecting the crankshaft bearings
No surprises, looks typical for a high mileage engine.


All out and ready to clean

 

Subscribed. I love keeping track of these builds, even if they're simple "refreshers". Keep it coming! I'll probably end up doing the same type of thing with my 227k mile EH9! A B18B1 is definitely on my options list as my car is also a daily and I want to retain the economical aspect of the car; that's why I sold my Cobalt SSTC and bought this!

 

Thank you!

Update:
-Rebuild Progress

Was kind of busy with my S due to an event so I haven't made much progress. (excuse..)

Cleaned pistons, rods, cam journal, crank journal, etc.
Simple green works wonders
After cleaning, immediately soaked them in some fresh oil so they wont rust.



Pressure cleaned the block and honed cylinder walls with $12 honing stone/tool from amazon.
Rather surprised how nice of a pattern it made.



Some new parts from Honda.


Measuring piston ring end gaps.
Outgoing (old) top piston rings measured from .027-0.29 inch (service limit is .024 according to the manual)
Had to double up feeler gauge to measure the old rings.


New one measured
1: Top 0.012 Second 0.019 didn't bother measuring oil rings.... I'm sure they are fine...
2: Top 0.011 Second 0.019
3: Top 0.011 Second 0.019
4: Top 0.011 Second 0.019
Limit for these are 0.008-0.014 top ring.
Here are the full spec according to the manual


Measurements



Oil pump disassembled and throughly cleaned


Measuring main bearing clearance with plastigauge



They all check out
New limit is 0.009 - 0.017


Here is the measurement of one of the new bearing. Looks to be about 0.016-0.017.


After measurement assembly lube was smothered on the new bearings and assembled crank.


At this point, I couldn't find my piston ring compressor, so I couldnt finish assembling the bottom end... -_-
So I moved on to the head and removed all of the springs/retainer.
Compared to K series dual spring these things were a joke to press them. easy one hand operation.
Took like 5 minutes to take em all out. WAY too easy.

All out


Done for now and will update some more when I buy a new ring compressor.

 

 

Doing the exact same for a b20z rebuild. Nice thread man.