I bought this ugly monster (in a bad way) of a CRX for $300 a few years back. I fixed it and got it running as a beater car. The kid who had it before me was a complete super idiot. As a matter of fact he still holds the crown as the #1 person I've met personally that should not be allowed to own or use men's tools. The car would not started so he just know it had to be fuel so he wired the fuel pump directly to the battery with a toggle switch and no fuse. He pulled the TB off for some reason and decided that the insulator block as extra weight and did not reinstall it. There were bunch of stupid things that he fu$ked up in a 5 star way. Including the body (See 1st pic)... After I undid all his doings, I found out the real problem was just the dashpot on the side of the TB (Kinda looks like a cross between the horn and the fuel pressure regular. So its been running grovy ever since. I had an SI sunroof laying around so back when I used to have free time I cut and welded it in to the DX.

So, thats where the car sits now. Since then I have managed to acquire a 2000 accord EX w/ a bad trans (I have a DX w/ a 5 speed - love that car) and I also have an EF traction bar. I've been trying to figure out what motor to put in the CRX for a while, going back and forth and back forth... It came down to a K24 or an F23 Vtec. The power differences are quite small. The f23 makes about 150HP/150TQ and the K24 is 160/160 roughly on both.. However, I have everything I need less a transmission for the F23. Decision made, the auto trans for the EX went bad... I swear! Can you believe it?? It also has 223,000 on it so its not worth putting a new trans in that car. In fact I'm going to swap all the OEM upgraded EX parts into my accord DX less the motor swap ofcourse
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Now, This car is going to be a street car. I want it to be as quiet as possible - I want a stock sounding exhaust. The HP goal is 350ish +/- 50 (No more than 400 no less than 300). I will definitely install ARP everything through out the motor. Main cap bolts, rods, head studs. Going w/ H or I rods (not sure yet), forged pistons. The heads is going to be opened up into a walk in cave. Needs as much volume as possible. As I see it, volumetric efficiency means jack **** with a turbo and what you want is the biggest hole you can pull off. I'll pull and install the valves myself with new guides as well. I will send the head and valves out for machining. Obviously I'm going to need some decent fuel flow for this thing so new rail and bigger injectors are in order. Still deciding what I want to use there. I do know that i want to use an external in line fuel pump with a tiny little baffle because the CRX is a pain in the *** in regards to the damn fuel pump and access to it. Plus I have done a lot of external in line pump installs for various FI conversion projects and I like them very much for a lot of reasons. I did one on my 2001 R1 when I converted it from 4 carbs to 4 TBs and fuel injection. The carbed motor did not have a return line for the gas tank or a high pressure fuel pump. Gravity worked just fine with the tank being installed so high.. but I digress.

What I would like input on is. how do you guys feel about the T2T4 6spd LSD trans? I tend to like tall gears, does it have short or tall gearing? What are good trans options for this motor and why are these option good or bad? Thanks...

(Various eye candy and poison...)

This is one of my current project just about done. It is a 2001 YZF R1 - notice the missing rear sub frame that broke off. It was welded on from the factory. Most are bolt on now and as you can see why....



What they looked like new in 2001:

 

What a 2000/2001 R1 looks like new - Note the front end.



(BELOW) The headlight fairing is a one-off unit that I fabricated which would allow me to bolt the 2008 R1 headlights onto the rest of the 2001 R1 body. Works perfect and bolts up just like OEM. The entire suspension / chassis part of the front end is also unique but not fabricated, the forks,triple tree, wheel and brakes where grafted in from a 2009 R1. Notice the brake caliper with 12!! Count em' Twleve pistons! The braking on this bike is sooooo good!. I also swpped in a 2003 full injected motor to replace the 2001 which was a perfectly fine motor but I needed something that I could program and wasn't really looking forward to endless swapping out needles and jets. For once "Too much to list" is true. The paint job in these pics was shut just for testing purposes so that i could run it one the street while we sorted any problems (Which I had one out of all that endless work). The final paint job will be done over the winter and then this bike can start winning shows.

 

And finally what you really want to see the start of my project - Here is how I received it...

 

Fixed the wheel arch....

 

And I'm taking shots of both cars as they stand/sit now... coming shortly....

 

T2T4 is not 6 speed. All FWD H/F series transmissions are 5 speed. Gearing on those is about middle of the road. It's not nearly as long as an F22/F23 trans, not as short as USDM H22. The trans will have to be matched to your specific setup. Powerband, tire size, and rev limit will all have to be taken into account. Nobody can tell you what will fit your setup. The T2T4 will work well in a variety of situations though. If you're sticking with the H/F platform, I think you should consider going F2B and using a B series trans. When you build the motor make sure you get some heavy duty wrist pins and at least ARP2000 rod bolts. That 97mm stroke makes gobs of torque and can be pretty brutal on internals.

If it were me I would probably go K20/24 with a 6 speed out of a TSX or something. It would probably cost more in the end but it would be worth it to have the newer platform. Plus you wouldn't have to build the engine to get the power you want.

 

Thanks for responding. I realized after the fact that the T2T4 was 5 speed. The more I educate myself about the choices, the less sure I am of what I want to do. The K series really is not that much more $$ than the F build would be. I could also do all motor G23.. But with F/H/K motors my concern becomes oversteer and how far forward the motor sits. The great thing about the CRX (which is also the great thing about my R1) is that it is nearly 50/50 on the wheels. I'm not doing a 1/4" only car, I want to keep the handling neutral, or a hair into understeer. In this case an LS VTec Tubo might be a better idea.. Does anyone really know just how much the K series moves the weight forward and how much heavier the install is?