1992 Honda Civic cx hatch crank no start!!!!!
Ok I bought this hatch for $800. The hatch has a mini me swap in it, b8 block with z6 head. Got it so cheap because it crank but won't start. When I purchased the hatch the previous own had a push starter wired, which ran from the power side of the starter. I don't understand why. I noticed the dash or interior lights don't come on and the key is useless. So I replaced the ignition switch still nothing I have a lot of back knowledge on hondas but this is one build that has me stuck. So far I have checked all fuses all good. I checked for spark, good spark. I'm not getting fuel pressure, so I replaced main relay and fuel pump. I installed new spark plugs not the wires though. I checked timing and it's on time. Now I as I checked the fuses in car no power goes to the fuses, the ones under the hood has power but not the alternator wire. I need help pls. All my known options on this symptom are exhausted. I think it's down to a ground somewhere or a wiring problem.
Power on the white battery wire but no power on the alternator wire suggests that one of the big main fuses in the underhood box is blown, or the box is bad. Note that these fuses are connected by screws at each end, the screws need to be in place and tightened.
The battery is connected to the white wires on the key switch through the main fuse. This needs to be live before turning the key can power anything else up. And of course the ignition, main relay (fuel pump and injectors) and ECU have to be powered up before the engine can start.
When you turn the key on the "oil", "battery", and "check engine" lights on the dash should come on. The check engine should go off after 2 seconds but the others stay on.
As you work on this car, try to return the wiring to stock.
The battery is connected to the white wires on the key switch through the main fuse. This needs to be live before turning the key can power anything else up. And of course the ignition, main relay (fuel pump and injectors) and ECU have to be powered up before the engine can start.
When you turn the key on the "oil", "battery", and "check engine" lights on the dash should come on. The check engine should go off after 2 seconds but the others stay on.
As you work on this car, try to return the wiring to stock.
Ok I didn't replace any of the big fuses, so I'll try that. Now far as the wiring goes I have a z6 harness in my old civic can I just take the harness out and use that one. My old civic has a z6 in it and the new hatch has a z6 head on it. All the wiring seems to be plug and play, I believe it's a z6 harness just hard to tell because the previous owner wire tucked and chopped up the wires :/
Test the fuses with a voltmeter, put one probe on ground and probe each end of the fuse-- you should have battery voltage on BOTH ends of the fuse. A fuse that has voltage only on one end is blown. One that doesn't have voltage on either end is likely not blown, but it isn't getting power from something before it. I think there is one big fuse for the battery/alternator hookup-- that one will kill the whole car if it blows(*). After that fuse it branches to one for the ignition switch, and one for the light switch. These should all be live on both ends all the time even with the key off.
Then go inside the car and test the same way to see if the wires on the ignition switch are live.
* Connecting the battery + and - backwards will blow that fuse instantly, that is how it usually happens. Or trying to R&R alternator without disconnecting the battery first.
Then go inside the car and test the same way to see if the wires on the ignition switch are live.
* Connecting the battery + and - backwards will blow that fuse instantly, that is how it usually happens. Or trying to R&R alternator without disconnecting the battery first.
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