This could be something really simple but simpleton that I am, I cannot figure it out, so someone help me.
Finally replaced the intake manifold after fixing the broken bolt issue discussed here (https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post50165799). In addition, replaced the AC system (condensor, compressor and evaporator). Took out the radiator fan assembly to replace but ended just washing it and re-install (new after market was different than OEM). After I put everything together, checked the connections and hoses, topped up the fluids (coolant, engine oil, transmission oil), when I try to start, there is no crank and no start. I hear the fuel pump come on, hear a click on the passenger side of the car, and the lights dim.
No codes yet (the battery terminal was disconnected during this work, perhaps those got automatically erased (?).
What am I missing here??
All that work was so exhausting (physically and mentally) that now I am nauseated that she won't start.

Also replaced the spark plugs, and exhaust manifold (had a crack).


So please help me figure this out.
TIA

 

might be a bad starter solenoid. give it a good smack the lug wrench or something.
might need a clean up or rebuild kit. try cleaning the ground on battery and thermo housing too.

 

Turn engine by hand to make sure it is not hydrolocked or otherwise jammed.

Measure voltage at starter (from starter live to starter ground) while trying to start to see if there is a bad connection between battery and starter.

 

Possible dead battery.

 

Most likely a bad battery going from the date of your other original thread. Take to any autoparts store for free battery test, or try to jump start the car

 

@RonJ and chrysler_kid: Checked voltage on battery (12.84 V). That was my first gut instinct, so double checked by trying a battery pack - no go.
@mk378: The engine does turn easily - glad it is not hydrolocked.
@tamboo: The ground wire on thermostat housing could be a likely culprit, since I did mess around there and may have missed re-attaching it.Did clean out the battery contacts.

Hoping that is it - thermo ground. Will update after I look into it now.

You all are great and I really appreciate your help.

 

Don't see any ground wire attached to the thermo housing. But there are no loose wires around there either. New battery Jun 14, 2014.
Also, the CEL comes on upon turning key but goes off - does that rule out ECM grounding issue?

 

Thermo ground is unimportant for cranking. Clean and tighten the G3 transmission and G1 battery grounds.

Do the same for the starter connections.

 

Will try this out tomorrow after work and post update.

 

I second having someone tap on the starter while you turn the key. Also double check the starter solenoid wire is firmly connected, it should be just one wire that ends in a spade connector. I've had it be just slightly loose on my car several times and that will result in the symptoms you've described.

 

Did a visual inspection of the G1 and G3 early this morning and they are in place solid. Haven't moved G3 during this process, and G1 was wiped clean earlier this time around. I will Unhook and clean these some more again today evening.
I had noticed that the cable attached to thermo housing had brittle insulation and may even be breaking down inside. Do I need to replace it or is it something I can refresh after splicing? If refresh is an option, I would appreciate a good link on how-to.
Of note, the battery cable (negative) and the harness (positive), don't inspire confidence and I would love to change them out but only found replacement for negative terminal and it was changed since. But the positive side harness, is there a replacement for those??

 

So... last night, I finally got some time (and energy) to sand down and refresh the ground wires - took apart the air intake to get the G3 both ends. And guess what?? It started to crank. So now my problem is "Crank but no Start" (wonder if I can edit the title to this thread to reflect that).
Also, checked the voltage on the battery and it was below 12.6 (12.49v ), so was able to crank using a jump starter. But still no start. The dash lights come on as they normally do, and they dim out when cranking (radio goes off). Noticed that my brake peddle was kind of hard to push - don't know if that is relevant or not.
Could you please tell me what I should check next?

 

Title edited.

Does the CEL remain on steady with key in ON(II)? Also check for spark and fuel.

 

Thanks Ron for the title edit and tips.
I will do the checks and let you know. However, it was a good running car before this IM swap, so hope it is still good and just a bad battery (fingers crossed).

Also, I appreciate that you take the time to help folks like me.

 

If the starter is cranking fine, then the battery is likely okay.

 

Ron,
Still at work but remembered something about the fuel pressure.
I can hear the fuel pump prime with key in on position. But when I did check the pressure last time, it did not show a spike. However, the injector (cleaned out previously) did have a smell of gas in them. So I don't know what to make of that. Anyway, I still have the gauges, so can test that again this evening.
Don;t have the spark tester yet so will do it country style using a screwdriver.

 

Definitely retest the fuel pressure.

Buy a spare spark plug to check for spark.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/

 

I have some spare spark plugs .
Going over your link: Where is this G101 wire? Don't think I have it. Or is it the one which plugs in to the thermostat (my picture in earlier post)? Do I have a variant without it?
Also, what do I do if she won't start due to 'flooding'? (just thinking ahead of possibilities in anticipation)

 

On the thermostat housing

The fuel pump would not prime if G101 were disconnected.

 

Checked the sparks - all four have spark and kind of orange (bright). Didn't get a chance to check fuel pressure.
But the car almost made an attempt to start very briefly - however the injectors were disconnected (for testing spark). Connected the injectors and tried again - and got crank but no start.
The starter seems to have dust and grime on the connectors - so will clean them out today.

 

You should also spray starting fluid into the open throttle body and attempt to start the car. If the car starts and dies you know it's a fuel problem

Double check all of the connections in the intake manifold. Did you get a new manifold from another CVT hx or is it from a hx with a manual transmission. Did you take everything from the original and put them on the new intake or are you using the sensors the replacement came with

I've never seen a CVT hx in person, but going from your other thread there is a difference. My egr valve is all electronic with no vacuum nipple

 

Sounds like weak spark. Ohm test the coil.

 

I do have some starter fluid and will try it (kind of wary of it but there is always a first time for everything).
I ended up putting the original manifold (after fixing the EGR passage bolt), so no modifications and ensured all hoses and sensor plugs were in place.

 

You used a correct intake manifold gasket for the y5 correct

 

Yes, it's the original one.