1994 Accord DX ECM swap
can I swap ecm's straight across on a 94? It's the same part number, and for the same model and year. As well as for a manual trans which mine has. I know nothing of Honda's. I bought this car as a cheap on gas work car. Was told the timing belt broke. When I got the parts in, I tore into it, belts where fine! Replaced them anyways. No spark, research, bad distributor? Oil in the cap, rotor did not turn when Motor was cranked over. So I replaced that, as well as the coil. More research, could be a relay, checked to see if there was fuel going to the fuel rail, there is. However, fuel injectors are not shooting fuel. So I figured it was the ECM. Ordered a used one, and someone tells me I may have to take it into Honda to have the vin programmed into the other ECM....but they where not sure. Can anyone answer this for me?
Pre-'98 USDM cars do not need to have any programing done. 98-02 cars have a chip in the key for anti-theft, your '94 does not, no trip to the dealer needed.
ECM from a 94 or 95, DX or LX, and manual trans should work fine in your car.
EX(VTEC), AT, and 96/97(OBDII) ECMs will not work properly.
I'm interested in the rotor not moving when cranking. Does the new distributor/rotor rotate while cranking? Distributor shaft is a solid piece, only reason it would not rotate is if the keyway was missing/broken or something happened to the camshaft(broken, damaged, loose cam sprocket). Or the timing belt was not correctly tightened and the belt slips over the cam sprocket while the crank rotates.
When turning the key to II(ON) you should hear the fuel pump prime and then some of the warning lights will turn off as well as the pump stops priming when the main relay turns off after a few seconds. It will turn back on and the lights and fuel pump will be on again when the key is turned to III(Start). Turn fams/radio off when checking for fuel pump, you should hear a slight humm when turned to II(ON).
Click on the 'techauto' link in my sig for further DIY diagnostics.
ECM from a 94 or 95, DX or LX, and manual trans should work fine in your car.
EX(VTEC), AT, and 96/97(OBDII) ECMs will not work properly.
I'm interested in the rotor not moving when cranking. Does the new distributor/rotor rotate while cranking? Distributor shaft is a solid piece, only reason it would not rotate is if the keyway was missing/broken or something happened to the camshaft(broken, damaged, loose cam sprocket). Or the timing belt was not correctly tightened and the belt slips over the cam sprocket while the crank rotates.
When turning the key to II(ON) you should hear the fuel pump prime and then some of the warning lights will turn off as well as the pump stops priming when the main relay turns off after a few seconds. It will turn back on and the lights and fuel pump will be on again when the key is turned to III(Start). Turn fams/radio off when checking for fuel pump, you should hear a slight humm when turned to II(ON).
Click on the 'techauto' link in my sig for further DIY diagnostics.
Last edited by MAD_MIKE; Sep 29, 2016 at 08:10 PM. Reason: iB is taking the piss out of it...
I put in a new distributor. Did not check to see if the new one turned. I'll check on Tuesday. I installed a new timing assembly, with a new tensioner pulley. It fits nice and tight. If the rotor on the new distributor does not turn, i'll pull off the valve cover and check the cam. Thanx for the info!
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Charles Weeks
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