Hello all. I am back. Sold my 01 and picked up a really clean like new 99 with 118k, I have fairly certainly confirmed this car has NEVER had the timing belt done. Orig owner and only owner before me says he does not recall doing that job. I called his dealer, they say they told him it needed one at 70k, he refused. Am I living on borrowed time? Mine is the 3.0 Vtect with 118k miles.
She needs brakes, what is the best pad to get to leave the LEAST brake dust.

 

Here are the pics. 100% rust free, clean body. Other then steering wheel and drivers seat leather cracking it is great shape. I spoke to the orig owner that just traded it in a few weeks back. he says it was a good car for them and that it has not known issues then him not doing the timing belt.

 

By 28K miles you are. Should replace it by 90K miles. The belts themselves don't directly go bad, its the tensioner and idler pulleys that will cause excessive stress on the belt to cause it to fail.
In my experience, F series engines, the timing belt tensioner idler starts to lose grease past its seal and drag on the belt which starts to cause glazing. This, in turn, overheats the belt, heat cycling the rubber which will cause it to cheque and then crack. Without the rubber to keep the belt bonded together it eventually fails. It's also why after a timing belt change the engine is quieter, new idler bearings are so much smoother.

I'd suggest going to Rockauto.com and picking up timing belt component kit w/waterpump
More Information for GATES TCKWP286A
Look online for the 5% discount code, that usually covers shipping in the lower 48.

Similar timing belt system on the J35 Pilot, https://honda-tech.com/forums/odysse...-pump-2643497/
Easier, IMO, to replace the belt on a J-series than on an F-series.

While you have the engine down/checking the timing belt timing, this would be the opportune moment to also remove the upper intake plenum and verify the EGR ports are clean. If the PO didn't do the belt you know they didn't do any other 'non-essential' work.
With the upper plenum out of the way this makes it possible to check the coil packs and boots along with replacing the plugs, I'm a Denso Iiridium TT fanboi they last longer take less energy to charge up allowing more energy into the actual spark for a more complete combustion.
Also, if the belt was not done, the valves have probably not been inspected/checked/adjusted either. Too tight of an exhaust valve will cause a misfire, poor drivability, emissions testing failure, or worse a burnt valve. If the oil was regularly changed it is most likely only the exhaust valves will need adjustment.

Do this to prevent misfires/misfire codes, or the dreaded P0420 code. Catalyst cannot properly catalyize if an engine is out of tune, do not fall for the P0420=bad cats, it just means the cats are unable to compensate, usually a maladjusted valve or engine out of tune is the cause, not bad cats.

Least brake dust without compromising stopping power would probably be a set of Honda brake pads.

I have Centric semi-metallics on my '95. Heavy braking can create some break dust, but if your wheels are kept relatively clean the brake dust can mostly be hosed off.

Ceramics, IMO, are the worst. They are probably the quietest pad, but they dust horribly(like driving through cocoa powder) and their stopping power is questionable at best. Increasing pedal pressure does not correlate to reduced stopping distances, they just seem to dust more heavily.

Organics are not even an option.

 

funny thing is that he has had the EGR ports done, twice i think. I have recpt's for that work and he told me he had it done. He was getting codes before it was done.
The motor is rather quiet running I think. No noise from it when you sit there looking at it while it is running.
Well I will have the whole get up done when I have the belt replaced. The whole KIT to replace everything, WP, pullies, etc.