Alright guys I've searched every thread on the internet. D series, homemade turbo and a few others and I can't find 100% of what I'm looking for.
My end goal with my build is 300hp (to the wheels) , a reliable turbocharged daily driver.
I plan to get aftermarket forged Pistons and rods, ARP head studs, and leave the cam stock.

From what I understand, the JDM d15b vtec shares the same rods as the d16z6 but different Piston bore for the shorter stroke. Therefore I came across this piston and rod kit for a USDM d15b which has shorter rods than stock and I believe the same sized Pistons as the d16z6 so I think it should work out.

I want a compression ratio between 8:1 and 9:1. I'll post a picture of the details for this kit.
My two questions with this kit are 1) will they sit flush with the deck? 2) If they do indeed fit, will the rods fit properly on the crank?
Are all d series crankshafts the same size?
Thanks guys I'm hoping to get some straight forward answers with this and finally start getting some parts together.

 

I had to clean that up, because anyone reading that will get a headache. I suggest using another online device to ask these questions and create a dialog. I understand that this is the mobile device age (and as a guilty party I occasionally use it to make quick replies, only to become frustrated from the same "auto-correct" phenomenon), but this is a forum and not Facebook, therefore, it's within your best interest by exercising good judgement and use something with a legitimate keyboard next time around for follow-up comments and dialog.

What happens unfortunately, is you won't get many responses of any kind here when you typed the way your original statement was organized. So, you get a one-time extended olive-branch in writing etiquette.

Now, before you get offended or defensive, I'm sure you'll still get your question answered, just not by me (not a d-series guy). But as a Moderator that truly cares about how the content is being organized, I'm trying to help out, Just not in a form that you originally thought. So, this was for your benefit, not to insult or offend

Carry on, everyone.

 

All modern "D" series engines share the same 75mm bore... so the difference between the D15B and the D16Z6 would be stroke and deck height. You can plug in the dimensions you have outlined in the Zealworks calculator to approximate the findings with respect to crankshaft, block, rod and pistons all leading to an effective compression ratio.

All "D" series crankshaft rod journals are the same size, so interchanging rods and cranks mechanically is possible.

Use this calculator to answer many of your questions: Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks

The next question I would ask would be considering today's tuning technology and theory... WHY on earth would you want an effective compression ratio of LESS than 8:1 ???

 

Not all d series rod journals are the same but d16's and d15b have the same rod journal of 45mm. The d15 p2p0 rods are shorter than stock while the d16 rods are longer than stock i believe, if youre unsure if their piston and rod combo will work in your motor try to contact them and ask, but for the record i think there isnt a difference in rod journal size from the JDM to USDM d15b, but i do not know for a fact, but thats all you should be worried about, if the engine is pulled measure your crank

 

92_civic_eg, I should have been more specific when I said all "D" series rod journals are the same: '92-00 "D" series rod journals are the same. There are early '88-91 rod journals that are smaller (40mm instead of 45mm), but that is not relevant with respect to the spirit of the OP's original question. He didn't state that he wanted to use a '89 D16A6 crank.

 

Thanks dude sorry for the mess aha I've never posted on a forum before but I just need some answers right now. I understand your concern cause I've seen people on here who cant make a proper sentence to save their life. I'll take what you suggested and learn from it.

 

I said I wanted a compression ratio between 8:1 and 9:1. Not less than 8 lol. And I'll check that website out. I still have the engine put together in my shop so what I might do is take it apart and bring a piston and a rod to a performance shop to see what they can get for me. If not I'll go through all the measurements for the stock rods and Pistons and get the appropriate sizes.

 

Also has anyone tried using an eagle/vitara setup for a d16z6 in a JDM d15b vtec? I hear it can be done with a thicker head gasket but I've also heard otherwise. I'd like to know if it's been done before in a boosted setup

 

No

What I think JRCivic1's point was that even going between 8.0:1 and 9.0:1 is not advisable. It references an older thought process to using turbochargers. Even most factory turbocharged applications no longer go by that logic with today's advancement in tuning hardware/software . No longer do experienced tuners have to "play it safe to guess" when it comes to proper ignition timing and fuel trim control. So, what he is saying is basically.... get out of the early 90's and increase static compression to at least 9.5:1 and 10.0:1 to get some good off-boost acceleration and use, and stop relying on old logic to get this done on the d-series.

Hopefully, I interpreted JRCivic1's comments properly. please forgive the mis-reference if I was incorrect.

 

As of the last few years, I see fewer and fewer D-series enthusiasts take that route, due to the level of machining that is involved. They don't go by that approach anymore and use a more tried-true method of aftermarket rod/piston combination outside of OEM Frankenstein setups like the Vitara.

 

Wellllll still not exactly, JRCivic1, a 92-95 d15b7 has 42mm rod journals.. i was in about the same predicament as the OP is why i learned most of the differences between the bearing sizes, I wanted to do a vitara/mini-me with a b7 block but its way easier to just find a d16 block and crank..

 

I stand corrected. I guess I didn't know as much about SOHC "D" series engines as I thought I did !!! Thank you for the lesson. Maybe I need to build a few more of them to familiarize myself with their intricate differences.

Shodan, that is what I was trying to say. A flat top piston with the proper quench area IS the new norm with modern engine management technology. As you said, the engine is far more responsive out of boost, is capable of far better fuel economy, and ultimately will make similar power at less boost as the engine type that the OP has outlined.

OP, I was not trying to say that what you were doing was bad... I was merely suggesting a different thought process that nets superior results. Don't get caught up in the minutia of numbers... like 7.88:1 compression is bad but 8:1 is good. From a builder's standpoint... I cannot think of a single reason to suggest to a customer that he/she should build a Honda/Acura engine with a compression ratio of LESS than 10:1... N/A, Supercharged or Turbocharged. Granted, some short stroke engine models might only make mid to high 9:1 compression ratios when using a flat top piston... again, don't sweat tenths... full points of compression make significant differences. If your budget is unlimited, you can make anything you want. In my experience, Vitara style piston users are more budget oriented and choose this path because it is economical, not that it is the best choice. I was merely attempting to offer you options that you may not have considered.

 

Alright I think I know what piston and rod kit I wanna get.

Vitara pistons, and forged 136.34mm h beam rods made specifically for these pistons. I went on a compression calculator and it's saying this setup with my JDM d15b vtec will give me about an 8.04:1 compression ratio.

Is this too low for let's say 10-15lbs of boost?

Keep in mind I hope to make between 250 and 300hp on this build.

With these Pistons and rods I'll have the pistons sitting pretty much flush with the deck so I won't have to worry about ruining my valves.

 

I kept looking and looking and it seems this is one of the only setups that'll give me some piston/deck clearance. I tried going with a longer than stock rod and it says that the piston will stick up a few millimetres.

Unless I can get a thick enough head gasket I think this might be my cheapest option

 

the issue is what the car feels like out of boost, it will be less responsive when not in boost. Its not optimal but it will work

 

God, I feel like it's 1994 again talking all this low 8.0:1 static compression stuff. I was in my cousin's talon that he got brand new, and Jew was taking all about his awesome 7.8:1 compression for boost!

Sheesh.

 

A friend of mine was trying to be cool and different using the jdm d15b vtec. After trying to find all the info, he opted to just use a z6 or y8 block and crank. It wasn't worth the hassle for the d15b.

also I've been down the vitara route and it sucked. Save for some forged Pistons.

 

So I guess my best option would be to have some custom rods and Pistons made?

 

No...No need to go that far, man... Just a nice eagle rod/wiseco setup

 

I'll have to search again for those a bit later, I'll keep you guys updated on what I find!

 

How do I make sure that the Pistons and rods fit each other?

I'm aware I need a 45mm big end on the rod, I need the rods to be 137mm, and the Pistons have to be 75mm p08's

 

The reason you cannot get any compression out of a Vitara piston, regardless of where it sits in relation to the top of the cylinder bore of the block, is the HUGE dish that it has. A -15cc dish is better for eating cereal out of... not making horsepower !!! Save a couple hundred extra dollars and buy a quality forged piston and then do your thing. You will be much happier.

 

That's a big help! I'll look into some forged p08's if they exist

 

A flat top (0cc) piston with a 27.50mm install height and the 137mm (5.394") rod will deliver about 10.1:1 compression... -2cc drops to about 9.7:1 compression... -3cc drops further to about 9.47:1. Find you something that fits those parameters and you will be happy.

 

Is there anyway you know where I can find the p08 Pistons? I'm looking on wiseco and they only have the d16 pistons which are p28 I'm loving the information you guys are giving me it's really helpful