how do I get the crank pully bolt off
My cheap shitty campbel-hausefield impact wont get it. I have a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a 5 ft long length of pipe slipped over it. I've sprayed PB blaster and wd-40 on it. I put a MAPP torch on it(hotter than propane). I even tried beating on the breaker bar with a 5lb hammer.
WTF!
how do I get this unbolted??? it is regular threads right? nothing in the helms about it being a reverse thread.
WTF!
how do I get this unbolted??? it is regular threads right? nothing in the helms about it being a reverse thread.
We have 1" impact guns at work and those will get anything off. 900ft/lbs of torque.
But yeah a good impact will do the trick.
But yeah a good impact will do the trick.
Anyone in the Baltimore/DC/NoVa area with a good air tool set up want to hook a fellow HT brother up? I'll make it worth your time 
edit: my shitty spelling
[Modified by jweller, 12:23 PM 11/8/2002]

edit: my shitty spelling
[Modified by jweller, 12:23 PM 11/8/2002]
Anyone in the Baltimore/DC/NoVa area with a good air tool set up want to hook a fellow HT brother up? I'll make it worth your time 
edit: my shitty spelling

edit: my shitty spelling
Yeah RH threads. Couldn't get it even with a 5 ft. cheater ? Damn son, that's tight ! Yeah, see if you can get it somehwere where they can put a 3/4" or 1" impact on it and at least get it broken loose for you. Gotta watch those cheater bars, they can cause ya' some serious hurt ! Or see if you can rent a 1" breaker bar and a 4 to 1 multiplier. That's a device that goes between the breake r bar and socket and mutliplies the applied torque 4 times. I worked for a constuction equipment dealer many moons ago and those were standard equipment for all the mechanics there. If you can't bust it loose with that it's time for the gas ax. (Hopefully to heat it up, not gut it out.)
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You'll damage the bearings and seals before you hurt the crank.
how do you know if the seal or bearing is damaged? i can hear a slight ratlle or high pitch rattle when i accelerate or when i rev it hard.
The odds of damaging the crank, seals or bearings are very, very low. You are at much greater risk of damaging yourself or the sheetmetal on your car if you use a cheater and it slips off. Don't ask me how I know.................
There is an outside chance of pulling the threads on the crank snout but if it does that something was wrong anyway. It just needs a good shock to break it loose. When I did my timing belts a few weeks ago I had to use a breaker bar, my 1/2" impact wouldn't budge it. When it finally broke loose it sounded like a .357 going off and felt like somebody hit my arm with a baseball bat ! I had my full 230 Lbs. on the breaker bar pushing it down towards the garage floor.
Make sure you don't have any body parts between the breaker and anything solid in the direction you are moving it. I learned that the hard way 25 years ago and still carry the scars to prove it.
ya had the same problem. split 2 sockets and went out and bought a new $200 something impact wrench with something like 700 lb ft to try and get the thing off. nothing working so we did it the ugly way, jammed a screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning (we had it in overdrive and all but it still moved, that was eliminating most of the torque we were putting into it) and finally after a few tries that new impact wrench broke it free.
I locked up the flywheel with s screwdriver then used the tire iron with a breaker bar, came right off with constant force, not a sudden force. CONSTANT!!!
I go to local tuner place and rent their garage for like one hour...
I make an appointment and then they usually let me work on my
car on sat. or sunday since they close early and not as much ppl..
I make an appointment and then they usually let me work on my
car on sat. or sunday since they close early and not as much ppl..
life's too short without air tools..
that what i learn after I broke 3 torque wrenchs.."snap on" huh? snap broke
that what i learn after I broke 3 torque wrenchs.."snap on" huh? snap broke
life's too short without air tools..
that what i learn after I broke 3 torque wrenchs.."snap on" huh? snap broke
Torque wrenches are NOT breaker bars. If anybody used mine for a breaker bar I'd use it for a club shortly afterward.
that what i learn after I broke 3 torque wrenchs.."snap on" huh? snap broke
Torque wrenches are NOT breaker bars. If anybody used mine for a breaker bar I'd use it for a club shortly afterward.
OK this is rediculous. I just bought a IR 2131A. 600ft/lbs of torque in reverse. only a 1/2 inch drive because my compressor doesn't put out enough for a 3/4 or a 1in drive. but AFAIK this is the most powerful 1/2 in gun made
did not even budge
I'm just beating the **** outta the nut. I swear that honda takes whatever the torque specs in the helms is, multiplies that number by 4 and torques down bolts at that spec in the factory. this is the 3rd nut on the car that has been damn near impossible to remove. both front axle nuts were the same way.
did not even budge
I'm just beating the **** outta the nut. I swear that honda takes whatever the torque specs in the helms is, multiplies that number by 4 and torques down bolts at that spec in the factory. this is the 3rd nut on the car that has been damn near impossible to remove. both front axle nuts were the same way.
I know this doesn't help but I feel yer pain man. Been there............
It may come down to drillin' it out and that can be a real bitch
, especially IN the car.
It may come down to drillin' it out and that can be a real bitch
, especially IN the car.
I'd take it to the dealer. I had to with the block I'm building.
They have a crank holding tool that you can buy as well. But it's be cheaper to pay them to break it loose and snug it up for the drive home (its keyed so you wont have any trouble).
They have a crank holding tool that you can buy as well. But it's be cheaper to pay them to break it loose and snug it up for the drive home (its keyed so you wont have any trouble).
Just put the screwdriver in the flywheel, have someone step on the brakes, then put on your tire iron with a pipe on the end, and push/pull. Have 2 people pull or push on the tire iron. Should come right off. I have taken 3 pullies off like this. You MUST make sure the power is constant so that there is more force/torque on the bolt and not like an impact gun where it is a short spurt of power, MUST BE CONSTANT!
what do you mean its keyed?
This is all very messed up. 600 ft-lbs can't remove it? Is everyone sure it's not reverse threaded? *shrugs*
PS In my experience, the best 1/2 breaker bars aren't good for more than ~500 or so ft-lbs before the socket attachment just snaps. You really need a good impact wrench and impact socket or maybe 3/4 breaker bar.
PS In my experience, the best 1/2 breaker bars aren't good for more than ~500 or so ft-lbs before the socket attachment just snaps. You really need a good impact wrench and impact socket or maybe 3/4 breaker bar.
Also, I don't have air tools. Last time I needed a stuck axle nut removed (after 3 broken 1/2 breaker bars), I just drove around town passing gas/service stations. This was on a Sunday. Saw a dude washing a Mustang in front of a gas station garage. He was a mechanic. Even though they were closed he opened the garage took out the impact wrench for me and undid the axle nut for me. We cinched it back up by hand so I could get home. I offered him 10 bucks and he didn't take it


