D16z6, 95 civic ex. 4 valve cover gaskets later and it's still leaking. 2 gaskets from Honda and the first 2 were felpro from autozone. Dab of rtv sealant in the corners. Tightened from the middle out, didn't tighten too much. Unsure if maybe the valve cover is warped? It's leaking across the entire front right above the exhaust manifold and a tad on the sides behind the timing belt and right in front of the distributor. It's completely dry above the intake manifold. Any input is welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

Did you clean (very thoroughly) the mating surface, and especially the corners where you apply rtv with brake cleaner before applying rtv and installing the gasket/cover?

 

I agree, the Vc and the head should be clean before installation.
But after 4 gaskets, it may not be flat anymore and bent/warped.
Next time its off, put it on a flat surface with a flashlight underneat (inside of it) and see if any light peeks theough the bottom of it.

 

So if you're unsure if the valve cover is warp...have you check it for warpage?

 

I should of noted, I actually tried the flashlight test on the 2nd or 3rd gasket. Yes, I used a can of seafoam i had laying, used clean rags and cleaned the mating surface every time. I know the surface of the head is good also.

If the valve cover is warped. It's so so so slightly that you can't tell. I picked up a spare valve cover last week I just need to strip the paint and repaint it and I'll see if it fixes the issue, I just wanted to get a few opinions beforehand.

Background info - bought the car as a shell, had a z6 laying around, pulled it all apart. New oil pump, seals, gaskets, water pump, had the head resurfaced and checked, block was decked slightly, honed, new bearings, valve job, polished valves, new seals and retainers. I've more or less replaced everything possible throughout the motor.

 

Also meant to note it is NOT leaking where the rtv sealant was applied. Just across the front of the valve cover and right at the curve of the head before the distributor. On the timing belt side it's it's the same spot, right in the curve. It's to the extend that it's leaking onto Trans, into the casing and causing the clutch to slip a little when you first take off on a cold start.

 

Clean it up, put valve cover gasket back on, warm it up and take pictures. Yes this will require you to sit there for an uncertain amt of time to pinpoint a leak.

 

Also, I don't know if seafoam leaves a residue or not. Clean all the mating surfaces with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is residue free when it evaporates.

Then, since your leak is in the corner(s). Tighten the bolts on the leaky corner first and do the middle bolt absolutely last. And lastly, get a beam type torque wrench like this as they are superior for low levels of torque and torque the bolts to 7 ft-lbs (if you take them all to 9 ft-lbs that is the max you should go, just do them all the same).

I suspect that you are not getting an even torque on the bolts being you are tightening by feel, not a torque wrench. And starting in the middle working out is letting you lightly warp the cover into a U shape lifting the outside corners.

You best sequence in this case will be right front corner, left back corner, left front corner, right back corner, finishing last is the middle front bolt.
Actually re-reading your post.... Is it leaking on the front curve or the back curve on both sides?

If front then sequence above is good, if back just do the crisscross starting in the back corner.

 

Subscribed. I have a similar issue and tried multiple gaskets. I used brake cleaner and not seafoam. I didn't try the flashlight test, I might try that next time. I have a 1/4" snap on digital torque wrench. Does that qualify as the proper type? I've never had issues with it in the past. It's very accurate. I want to see what you come up with before I buy a new valve cover.

 

OP - Post pictures of the leak sites.

Are you using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the correct sequence in multiple steps?

 

Somebody got the wrong bolts?

 

Yeah. Inside to outside. Like every other valve cover gasket, right? I'll be pulling it all apart anyways since I'm pretty sure I figured out my head gasket leak. This motor is a hot mess. I should just start over. I read a bunch of threads about the headgasket on the b20vtec leaking in the same spot. Then after I replaced it with the GE one made for the specific application and arp head studs it's still leaking. I didn't put it together originally, I bought it like this. I found a different thread saying the b18 head has an oil line that isn't used and needs to go to a machine shop to be blocked off. Since I want to build it for a high hp turbo, I'm thinking my best bet is starting with a b18a,b or b18c block and having it sleeved or css. With a b18c, I'd want to leave that line open, correct? Sorry for the long winded response. If anyone gives a ****, I can go into more detail about where I'm at and where I'm looking to be, but I don't want to take up room in someone else's thread.

 

The front curve closer to the exhaust manifold. Then the leak stops for maybe half an inch on both sides and then leaks directly across the front over the exhaust manifold. It's completely leak free over the intake manifold, directly above the distributor and directly above the timing belt. Only leaks are in the front area. I'll post photos when I get to work so you can see after driving how it's leaking. Monday I will strip my other valve cover and clean it and try another gasket from Honda with it and see if it makes a difference.

And to the post about the wrong bolts, no I have the right bolts. They're actually new I ordered them from majestic Honda when I ordered a bunch of other odds and ends.

Seafoam doesn't leave a rresidue to my knowledge. I'll put a little on some glass and let it evaporate and see but next go round I'll try brake cleaner instead.

I'll have the photos posted around 930.

 

Your 500 dollar torque wrench should be more than adequate assuming it's been calibrated semi recently or is semi new.

 

Sorry for the late reply. I work 3rd. Here's those photos.

 

Looks like oil may be leaking from the rubber valve cover bolt seals and spark plug tube seals.

 

Nah Ron that's purely from my hands. Some is from when I took the vc off and sat it upside down on the intake manifold.

 

Straight-edge and feeler gauges, pull VC, check front machined lip of head for flatness. Feeler gauges because light under edge is difficult over the valvetrain. if good, you shouldnt see any more gap than .005", the gasket *should* make up for .02" easily, but if you have that much runout on a machined surface, you need more than just a VC leak fix.

Beyond that, I would be inclined to think your VC is bent, tho they usually break before bending too much.

 

You try changing the valve cover gasket yet?

 

Stupid ****.....LOL

 

Yu mad at slo?

 

Update ***

Drove by my friends shop, pulled the valve cover. We've come to the conclusion the vc is warped or bent. He checked the head for flatness and everything checked out fine. Will be cleaning and installing my spare vc I have somewhere and I'll update again. Any other theories are welcome.

 

Use the old original hardened valve cover grommet bolt washer. The new ones are soft and may be getting softer when thr engine gets hot. Not the tube seals but the rubber washers for the bolts.

 

Why would you suggest/want the dried out hardening/cracking rubber bolt seals for the valve cover? When new, those grommet's were soft and pliable, after 20 years the rubber has turned nearly into plastic with no give and less sealing capability etc.

I do not understand your recommendation.

 

That's the only other thing I can think of that would cause a valve cover gasket to leak besides a bad valve cover itself. He asked for any more ideas, well it was an idea