so I bought one of those Sunpro mini tachs to throw in my 90 standard hatch. I know most of you will say to just get an Si cluster, but I already have this other tach so that's what im using. anyways, I know I have it hooked up correctly, with the green wire hooked straight up to the distributor and not under the dash. (previous owner had it hooked up this way before the car was stolen and the tach was taken) but, it wont read the rpms correctly. my question is this, is that a sign of a weak distributor? or is there something else I need to be looking at?

 

back story on the whole ordeal is this.... the previous owner had the same tach in the car when I bought it, hooked up the same exact way... it was reading correctly then. my car was stolen and the thieves cut the wires and stole the tach before abandoning the car. I bought another one cuz it was cheap and it gave me something to tinker with. the day I installed it, my distributor cap cracked due to the screw the holds the rotor in place coming loose and getting caught up In the rotation on the rotor. ive been chasing a misfire ever since. yesterday, my check engine light came on with a code 8. (TDC sensor) it has an d16a6 distributor because of the MPFI swap and, if im correct, that TDC sensor is in the distributor. so, could it be that the distributor got messed up because of that screw and that's why the tach isn't reading the way it should be. it works, but it doesn't really rev beyond 2500 rpm and at idle, its at 0. hopefully that all makes sense to someone that may be able to help me out. thanks in advance.

 

Does your tach have a cylinder number adjustment, 4/6/8 and if so is it set for a 4 cylinder? 94

 

It does, and I'm pretty sure I set it on the 4 cylinder setting when I installed it, but I'll double check. I actually forgot about that... thank yoyou.

 

good luck, hope that's all it is. 94

 

yup, that's all it was. wow, I feel like an idiot. thanks for the reminder. ok, this is off topic, but same car. I know that I have real bad compression in cylinders 1 and 2. #1 has 50psi and #2 has ZERO. I didn't even bother with checking the others... but should the car still run and drive with the compression like that? I would think that it wouldn't start at all... I know that there are a lot of factors to consider in this area... but does anyone know if there is one main issue with the D15B1 engine that I need to look into? or should I just find the time and $$ to tear the engine out and do a complete rebuild?

 

and I still think that my distributor may be messed up due to that screw getting caught up in everything. causing the timing to be messed up, well... the ignition timing. I have a new one ordered, but is there something else, in someone elses experience, that I need to look into? at least for the misfire issue. cylinder 2 WILL NOT fire no matter if I swap injectors, injector connectors, the wiring for the connectors, spark plugs, wires, ect. Nothing changes in THAT cylinder.