ok so instead of rebuilding my top end I can get a jdm drop in motor for the same price. I've searched a ton on here but haven't come up with an answer.
I have a '98 V obviously with the b-20b, can I drop in the b-20z which had a knock sensor on the motor and run it fine without any issues?

or should I go with the b-20b with p8r head on it?
i appreciate any opinions or help on this topic

 

yes you can run the b20z motor just fine, aslong as you run the same ECU that your car came with, P8R head doesnt do much havent really seen any dyno graph difference unless you start to cam the motor

 

This is the info on the website of the company I'm getting the motor from, I'm curious if the power number are correct

 

they are prolly very close to what they are , but to be honest in such a moderate heavy car, you noticed the tq value is pretty much the same. Im sure the tq band is prolly similar. is you crv auto or manual? reason i ask the sweet spot of the tq band on the motor is 4k-6k its where the tq comes in peak and flat , if your car is a manual you can do a vtec head which would net you much better power band on top where the b20 falls off. only reason i ask if its a manual its a little bit easier to convert to vtec but im sure there is a way weith an automatic other then just using a vtec controller which wont have fuel and timing maps

 

I have a 98 CRV and did the swap from the b20b to the b20z. I used a 2001 north american engine and used the b20z ecu with the 98 wiring harness and ran an extra wire from the knock sensor to the ecu and everything is running fine. There have been many folks who have done what you are doing so a little more searching and you can probably find a step by step procedure. its a pretty easy swap the hardest part is getting the car high enough and stable to drop the motor and tranny from the bottom, I highly recommend using a hoist.

 

OK, so i ended up with the P8R engine and its in the car. The only issue i'm having is the anchor mount on the drivers side.... The mount on the block of the new motor is about 1 1/4" taller than the mount on my OG motor. Is this the difference of AT vs MT mounts? Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Just use to mounting post from your old b20. Also the JDM engine doesn't have the CFK sensor on the oil pump like the USDM one does. not sure if that was mentioned in above post's. you have to either bypass the CFK sensor or used your old oil pump. Not doing one or the other your car will not start up.

 

Only on the passenger side if I remember correctly

 

We swapped the oil pump from the old B20, I'm going to swap the mount on the block.

 

Drove it to work today. Was running GREAT, nice to have some power back. About 10 miles into my daily commute it's starts flashing D4 but it's still doing fine on power. I get off the freeway at my exit and I realize it's not downshifting, so I manually downshift it to D3, 2, 1, and its clunking into the gears. Take off again and it's clunking up into the gears. Feels like the tranny is slipping a bit as well. I checked the lockout solenoid and it checks out fine on the ohm meter


. Starting to feel a little hopeless about this daily project

 

When you swapped the engine did you leave the transmission in the car? You could be low on transmission fluid.

 

No I pulled tranny along with it. And also replaced the tranny fluid upon reinstallation of the motor/ trans. If I shift it manually 1,2,d3,d4 it drives fine. But if I just put it in d4 it doesn't shift at all. Like it's just 4th gear.

 

Turns out it was the VSS fuse. Put the car in limp mode. That was a very nice and easy fix