Hey, so I have been having an issue where I hit full boost till about 5500-6500rpm. Then it hits a full hard cut where the engine pretty much shuts off for a few seconds. If I hold the throttle it stays dead a bit and then hits full boost till 6k again and repeats itself.
I have no check engine lights 99% of time, the couple times it has shown up it just flashed and went away. I've got new plugs, coil, igniter, and my tuner is reviewing my datalogs. So I'm hoping someone here has had the same issues or may have some insight.
As for my build, it's a 90crx with a freshly overhauled forged/cammed dual cam ZC with a Garrett gtx2860r, hondata s300 v3, ID 1000cc injectors. I think that's the gist of it.
I work and live out of cell service so I may be slow to respond at times. thanks in advance!

 

if its a actual boost cut that is set by the tuner, for instance my boost cut is set to 25 psi its a safe guard so you dont over boost and blow something up.

Have u noticed the boost spiking at all?

 

Sounds like it could be over boosting and hitting boost cut. Your boost cut probably has a few second delay before it will stop cutting ignition or fuel or both. Double check your WG vacuum lines and the wg itself.

Your in k falls that's not too far from me. I don't see too many people on here that close to me.

 

I don't know if it means much, but rather than my engine just slowing down from no spark or fuel, my tach jumps immediately to 0 and the car slams me forward slowing me down so fast until it starts going again.

 

And sadly not that simple. my rev limit is a little over 8k and boost cut is 16 or 18. I'm only running 13 at the moment, it tapers off to close to 11 too.

 

and yeah, sadly not in k falls anymore, I move all over for work. I went to college there. I loved I falls. my twin still lives there tho lol

 

Easy fix, just gap your spark plugs to .018

 

That sounds a lot like Boost cut more than anything plug gap. To be sure, please check your boost cut settings and limiters on your management, if able to do so. Hopefully you're not on a basemap of some kind and had the car actually calibrated .

 

Ok I'll try a smaller gap. it didn't always do this too, it just randomly started a few weeks ago if that helps. and yeah I checked my calibrations. all good. it's street tuned now, waiting for dyno tune until I fix this and get a flex fuel sensor installed.

 

again its does not sound like spark plug gap related, although you should always be gapping plugs properly anyway, you said you checked your calibrations, whats your boost cut set to? also check the logs to see if you are at or near boost cut pressure when this happens.

.018 sounds way to small I have ,025 and thats kinda on the small side IMO

 

yeah I didn't think so, but I tried gapping to near .21 and still the same. I checked and boost cut is 18, I'm hitting 11-12 when it does it. my rev limit is 8012. I just got a datalog and it seemed to hit 11-12psi around 5900 often. but it did randomly do it all over even at 4kish with almost no throttle. hopefully my tuner will catch the engine light that flashed, or something useful. I can email it to you if you feel like reviewing it too. more eyes that look it over the better I would think

 

did you try to pull engine codes? a quick flash can just be a shift light, as my hondata is set this way

 

Try with a Crome chipped ecu with a good basemap or do a street tune to see if problem persist. you need only one pull to see if the car can go more than 11psi

 

Don't get crome... Just go to the tuner, replicate the issue so you can narrow down the exact diagnosis.. You're spinning your wheels with us.. We can't see it, and we aren't there..

Head to tuner, get diagnosed, come back. No other companies, no new chips, use what you have

 

yes it flashes a lot like my rev limiter, just a quick flash and nothing. no codes show afterward. but it's only done that a couple of times, normally it doesn't flash when I hit the boost cut.

 

No luck getting the code, it just flashes and doesn't leave a code that I can't find, but I'm not too familiar with hondata yet. it does act like the blip of a shift light, but it does it randomly and very seldom

 

I don't plan on going chrome, unless trying a friends or something. I've got hondata s300 v3. and I have taken it to my tuner, he's pretty stumped at this point. he's reviewing my datalogs looking for anything weird. I just wanted to know if someone has had the same the issue or new ideas

 

Do you have full throttle shift activated? I had a similar issue with mine that I just could not figure out at the track. It ended up being that my clutch switch backed out just a little bit to where the ECU thought I had the clutch pressed in so it was telling the ECU to drop the RPMs when I was still trying to accelerate.

 

Turn on the onboard data logging to turn in when the TPS is > or = 100%. Replicate the failure then go back and look at the log to figure if there's anything coinciding with the cut...rev limiter, boost cut, etc. It'll give you more data to narrow down the issue and get out of speculating what the issue is.

i doubt it's spark plug gap because it'll break up moderately but will still carry rpm albeit erratically.

 

Plug in your laptop and run Smanager to check the error codes when it occurs!

Are you running an original dizzy? Sometimes ICM and/or coil does bananas when on boost )-:

 

Mine did this when i increased the spool up setting in my boost controller in 2nd gear.

it was duty cycle - *target boost - and sensitivity.

When i increased the target boost the engine cut in 2nd gear at high rpms when it was SPOONIN lol (or they also call it spool up rate the target boost)

I was just messing with it though, maybe u need to look into ur wastegate springs and boost controller?

 

"Spool up" rate is considered to be "GAIN" by us old-timers. Target boost is simply that; the target boost pressure level you're trying to achieve .

 

What map sensor are you running?

 

In order to rule everything out, I would one by one turn off any features that may cut timing on your engine. Features like boost cut (obviously be very careful with this one), launch control, make sure your rev limiter is fuel cut only, etc. If none of these work, then I would head into your distributor and see what the components look like. I'm surprised you didn't replace the rotor with everything else. Also, when you say "new coil and igniter"... aftermarket? Honda OEM?

 

thanks for the responses guys. at this time I'm running a mechanical boost controller, so it shouldn't be related to that. I have tried changing my rev limiter and boost cut with no luck.
I've tried getting some datalogs and they are not showing anything in particular. all of the recordings kind of spaz out. and sadly my check engine code is not shown in the datalogs. probably like the rev limiter.