05 accord no clutch pressure
Hey guys I'm trying to get my car up and running. Its a 95 accord btw not sure how to change the thread title but anywaysI have no clutch pressure at all. I replaced the master cylnder and the slave cylnder both were cheap so I just did it just in case, currently bleeding it and I'm still not getting any. Pressure there is still air bubbles coming out but I was told pressure should still start to build up even so it will just feel squishy. I check for leaks I don't see any should I just keep bleeding it there is a lot of air in the system, but I was told I'm not gonna get all the air out without any pressure. Any suggestions.
Last edited by Tydeezy; Jul 27, 2016 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Wrong year
So I adjusted the nut and I feel a little pressure build up when the slave is closed now, so now I guess I just gotta keep bleeding till the air is out... Thanks cause before I felt no pressure diffenece whether closed or open but now I feel slight resistance. There is a lot of air in the system wish there was a faster way.
Quick update so I'm starting to get actual pressure twoardbthe bottom of my pedal not snapping to the floor anymore. I'm just pumping and filling the resevoir for now till it stops going down then I'll start bleeding. I was scared that it was leaking but for how much I was putting in I would have had to see a leak somewhere but I'm guessing its possible that the system didn't have enuff fluid period to give me pressure??
The nut has no other purpose other than to keep the pushrod from spinning and changing the clutch pedal engagement point. If you don't lock that nut against the end piece then over time the engagement will loosen up until you don't have enough free clutch play.
However, first you need to take off the end of the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and turn the end piece either out or in to match the distance of the old push rod. You want the clutch pedal to have about 3/4 of an inch of free play before engaging when you push it down. After you get it set right, then you tighten the lock nut. It's similar in fashion to an inner tie rod assembly lock nut.
However, first you need to take off the end of the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and turn the end piece either out or in to match the distance of the old push rod. You want the clutch pedal to have about 3/4 of an inch of free play before engaging when you push it down. After you get it set right, then you tighten the lock nut. It's similar in fashion to an inner tie rod assembly lock nut.
The nut has no other purpose other than to keep the pushrod from spinning and changing the clutch pedal engagement point. If you don't lock that nut against the end piece then over time the engagement will loosen up until you don't have enough free clutch play.
However, first you need to take off the end of the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and turn the end piece either out or in to match the distance of the old push rod. You want the clutch pedal to have about 3/4 of an inch of free play before engaging when you push it down. After you get it set right, then you tighten the lock nut. It's similar in fashion to an inner tie rod assembly lock nut.
However, first you need to take off the end of the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and turn the end piece either out or in to match the distance of the old push rod. You want the clutch pedal to have about 3/4 of an inch of free play before engaging when you push it down. After you get it set right, then you tighten the lock nut. It's similar in fashion to an inner tie rod assembly lock nut.
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