Hi guys I have a 1999 honda civic cx hatchback and I've been havin an issue with warm start up. The car starts fine after engibe is cold but once it is warm and I shut it of it just cranks and floods my engine.

I have personally done a complete tune up to this car replacing:

Spark plugs
Smog canister
Purge valve
Purge valve solonoid
Fuel filter
Fuel pressure regulator
Main relay/fuel pump relay
MAV sensor on throttle body
Wiring harness

Rebuilt distributor replacing:
Coil pack
Rotor
Distributor cap

And even checked and tested fuel pump and it is fine.

If I do manage to finally get it started while it's warm it's really sluggish and rough running,engine will Rev up and down for a few minutes due to the flooding I have caused while attempting to get it started sometimes it will start up 30 minutes after sitting sometimes 3-4 hours

I'm starting to lose my mind trying to figure it out.

Last thing I can think of is the ignitor mechanism inside the distributor is over heating and staying open...

But I would love some feedback on this issue from others.

Thank you

 

Post the CEL codes. Is CEL code 6 thrown?

 

Acually there are no codes at all.. I forgot to mention even when the diagnostic tool is plugged in I got no codes just a green light.. good to go for etest

 

See the Codes sticky at the top. Does the CEL work? If so, does it blink any codes when you jump the service connector?

 

Absolutely nothing at all comes up I'm almost ready to bring it to a garage and tell them everything I've done so they can work from there

 

Check whether the previous owner removed the CEL bulb in the gauge cluster.

That's your choice. If you want to figure it out without a mechanic, answer questions and follow instructions here.

 

During a time when it will not start, check for spark.

 

Spark is blue and strong

Even after hot spark is still strong
To me something electrical is over heating

 

As RonJ mentioned, you must verify that your CEL is in fact functioning. Turn the key on to the position just before "Start". The Check Engine light should illuminate for approximately three seconds and then go off when you hear the main relay click. If this is working, then I will suggest three other things to check. 1) The fuel pump may be old/tired/clogged and/or the fuel sock is clogged. 2) The O2 sensor may be failing and giving false readings... either leaning out or enriching the fuel mixture in direct opposition as to what trim should be done. This can be seen in the live data stream in the short term and long term fuel trims. The adaptation values should be dramatic numbers... well beyond +/- 10%. 3) Strange IAT or ECT values. Based on what you have described, it sounds as though you are trending towards a LEAN condition, so look in the live data stream to see if the IAT or ECT values are unusually high. If you do not have the devices to monitor engine function live data, nor do you have access to a shop or parts store to provide a method to examine data, you will have to replace the IAT, ECT and O2 sensor one at a time to see what cures the car. Start with the cheapest one first.

 

Check ECT sensor, symptom of a bad ECT sensor is engine starts fine when cold but hard or no start when at running temp, also fuel economy is poor, engine floods easily, due to a high A/F ratio.

Also as mentioned, check the CEL for missing or burnt out bulb, the CEL should illuminate when ign. is turned on. 94