Hello All,


I've got my sons 95 accord 2.2 LX which has had the fuel pump and PGM Relay replaced(relay twice, none of the relays were bad). I just got it from him as it start when it feels like it. When first turning the key to ignition on, it takes forever (no fuel pump prime and check engine stays on). Eventually, the D4 light starts blinking. It will blink forever. Do this a few times(2-5) of times, and then after about 15-20 blinks you can hear the fuel pump cycle and the check engine light goes off like it's supposed to but the D4 light stays blinking. Do it a few more times and the D4 light goes out completely, but it is still taking it like 20 seconds to cycle the pump on. I Jumped the OBD-1 and get 14 for the code. I've read it can be anything from the ECU,TCU,Distributor,Solenoids, etc. Funny thing is after the several times, all the lights go away and once it starts, it runs fine, just takes long to cycle it's initial checks. Any thoughts or experiances are appreciated. Bert

 

Check basics.
Verify battery voltage.
Verify battery cables are clean and tight.
Verify grounds and bonding jumpers are installed, clean and tight.
Verify ignition switch operates properly, if the contacts are worn there may be intermittent contact. Jiggling the key can sometimes bring the contacts together. If there are lots of keys or heavy charms on the key chain this can wear out the ignition switch prematurely.

Is the code 14 from the CEL or from the D4 lamp?

CEL 14 - IAC valve/circuit.
D4 14 - FAS wire. (no communication between ECU and TCU)

 

Thanks Michael. Did try a new ignition switch. Same deal. Voltage is good. Am going to pull all the terminals and connectors tomorrow and clean. The code is from the D4 light, FAS wire (brown and white) or ECU-TCU. Wire checked out ok, but the problem fades and the car starts, so it's not a permanent fault. Still takes a long time to cycle through startup even when it works. Almost like some sensor or solenoid is taking long to respond. I will post tomorrow after I clean all connectors. If that doesn't work I was thinking of taking TCU out and checking the capacitors for leakage. I hear they leak after some time.

 

Well cleaned all the terminals and grounds today. Also pulled and checked the ECM and TCM. They are like new, no leaks or bad resistors. All connections good. Still takes about 5-7 minutes to cycle in the morning and about 20 seconds to cycle once it's going and then D4 blinking light goes away. Got me stumped quite honestly. What else does the ECM cycle thru before sending a ground to the PCM Relay? Is there any documentation on the initial cycle of the ECM and what it checks? Maybe I'm missing something.

 

FAS Wire has good continuity. 5 Volts between it and A25. Bit the bullet and ordered a used ECM off ebay. 55k mile car. Go figure.

 

Got the new ECM and TCM in today. Changed the TCM first, no difference. Plugged in the new ECM and problem gone. Put old TCM back in, drove around for 10 minutes. Just as I was getting ready to shut her off and put her back together, ECM goes POOF and a cloud of white smoke comes out. Pulled it apart and the C16 capacitor blew. Now blinking the D4 light. Disconnect battery and waited awhile. Put back in the new TCM, and car starts fine and runs with no D4 light. Idle is low and rough though once warmed up. Figured it was a capacitor that was blown in the old ECU, just couldn't see which one. Something is definitely causing this to short out though. Double checked all my grounds. My ground is at the back of the intake, not at the water outlet. Maybe a stuck IAC???

 

Or could be that capacitor is just weak from the start, since I see so many D4 Blinking delayed an no starts all over the place.