Where can I find brake tolerances for 00 Accord? 3.0 V6
Have a bad vibration when braking -the whole car and wheel shake. Checked runout and have .12mm on one of the back brakes. I believe .1mm is the limit but would .02 over cause such bad vibration?
This car was bought new by my brother-in-law. It was always serviced by the stealer in Overland Park KS.
I recently swapped out the 65's for a set of new 60's that were on another accord I sold. I had the tires balanced by the ghetto tire shop that did the swap so not sure how good of job they did, if they did it at all because I immediately noticed a very slight vibration after. But it wasn't that bad because I drove from Des Moines to Chicago and back at 80 to 100 MPH.
THen the car sat for a few months with maybe 50 miles total.
Shaking started. front pads were good and I replaced rears -No change (not that I though pads would help). The caliper sliders were free, not frozen.
The runout doesn't seem too extreme.
Thank for any advice or brake data!

 

It's possible the rotors are just warped from the shop overtorquing the lug nuts using an impact gun. This is a common problem with new techs doing shabby work that don't know sht. You could just retorque the lug nuts the proper way and to spec and hope they aren't permanently warped. Take it for a spin. If they are still pulsating swap em out and torque to spec.

 

.10mm(.004") is the runout limit for rotors.
.01mm(.0004") can be felt.
.03mm(.001") just gets annoying.

Discs should be within .015mm(.0006") parallelism.

Front min thickness 21mm(.83")
Rear min thickness 8mm(.31")

Have the tires checked for balance, however the tires would cause a shimmy/shake when driving. Braking shimmy is related to runout/hardspots.

You can try rebed the pads to see if it's just from buildup.
~10 slow downs from 60 > 10MPH, don't stop. Ideally a stretch of highway when there is no traffic, easy line of sight to watch out for traffic, and where it would be safe to break in the brakes.
Accelerate up to speed normally and continue.

Brake as though you are getting off at a short off ramp. You want to put heat into the rotors/pads, don't cook the brakes, you are just trying to do is wipe away any build up while transferring a layer of brake material to the rotors.

The pulsations will get worse before they get better, by the 7-8 slow down the pulsing should begin to go away. After the last slow down, and the brakes feel good, drive around for 20mins without stopping to allow the rotors to cool. You do not want to stop immediately with hot rotors, this will cause an uneven transfer of pad material to the rotor, or worse, and will cause a high/hardspot on the rotor.

If the runout is still the same, re-surface/replace the rotors.

 

Thanks a lot for the replies. I probably should have tried to rebed the pads since the runout was within tolerance (actually wasn't a lot better with new rotors).
Went to have rotors resurfaced but they were very close to end of life so I opted for new even though the car will be sold. It will probably be some young person or somebody with limited finances who buys the car and my $100 for new rotors might cost them $1000 for a complete brake job at the dealer or other shop where fixing your brakes means new calipers, pads & rotors.
I replaced the rear rotors -No improvement.
Replaced the front rotors -Problem gone.
Was thinking there was something else going on because the runout was within spec. Must have been some buildup or something -or a thin spot on one of the front rotors I missed...
Still have very slight vibration at about 70mph due to tires having been "balanced by an idiot but braking is smooth as can be.
Thanks again for the info.
DX