Upgrading tranny, 4.7 or 4.4 LSD
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
I'm getting my 2000 EK SiR track ready and one "must do" job is the tranny due to 2nd & 3rd gear damaged gear sets in the current b16a with stock tranny.
Had my mind set on a S80 4.7fd LSD but getting mixed opinions, I thought that would be perfect for our local circuit.
Been looking at a few of the older tranny threads but would just like some newer opinions if the 4.7 LSD is the way to go or would 4.4 LSD be enough? I have looked at a few charts with the gear ratios, would also do a bit of daily driving with it.
Another option is changing out the 2nd & 3rd gear sets and replacing current non LSD FD with one of the LSD types but not so easy to get the individual parts here, everyone selling complete type r tranny's.
Had my mind set on a S80 4.7fd LSD but getting mixed opinions, I thought that would be perfect for our local circuit.
Been looking at a few of the older tranny threads but would just like some newer opinions if the 4.7 LSD is the way to go or would 4.4 LSD be enough? I have looked at a few charts with the gear ratios, would also do a bit of daily driving with it.
Another option is changing out the 2nd & 3rd gear sets and replacing current non LSD FD with one of the LSD types but not so easy to get the individual parts here, everyone selling complete type r tranny's.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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I loved my 4.78FD. The motor attached to it was a B18C-R. It was in a DC2 ITR. It helped to keep the car in 3rd on corners where I'd debate slowing down more to put it in 2nd to get more exit acceleration...or bogging midcorner to keep it in 3rd.
The shorter 4.78 FD just allowed me to keep it in 3rd.
Obviously, results will vary depending on what the circuit layout is. I'm sure there are tracks that favor a 4.4FD.
But the 4.78 did improve the street driving experience as well. The car felt more torquey and the gear reduction was not overkill.
I had a N3E trans that has the GSR 4th and 5th. I would NOT recommend the GSR 4th. I would only partially endorse the GSR 5th...but will say its unnecessary. I would ideally have a B16/USDM ITR/96-97 JDM ITR 4th and 5th...even with the 4.78.
IDGAF about the increased revs on the highway....and neither should you.
4.78 gets my
The shorter 4.78 FD just allowed me to keep it in 3rd.
Obviously, results will vary depending on what the circuit layout is. I'm sure there are tracks that favor a 4.4FD.
But the 4.78 did improve the street driving experience as well. The car felt more torquey and the gear reduction was not overkill.
I had a N3E trans that has the GSR 4th and 5th. I would NOT recommend the GSR 4th. I would only partially endorse the GSR 5th...but will say its unnecessary. I would ideally have a B16/USDM ITR/96-97 JDM ITR 4th and 5th...even with the 4.78.
IDGAF about the increased revs on the highway....and neither should you.
4.78 gets my
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
I loved my 4.78FD. The motor attached to it was a B18C-R. It was in a DC2 ITR. It helped to keep the car in 3rd on corners where I'd debate slowing down more to put it in 2nd to get more exit acceleration...or bogging midcorner to keep it in 3rd.
The shorter 4.78 FD just allowed me to keep it in 3rd.
Obviously, results will vary depending on what the circuit layout is. I'm sure there are tracks that favor a 4.4FD.
But the 4.78 did improve the street driving experience as well. The car felt more torquey and the gear reduction was not overkill.
I had a N3E trans that has the GSR 4th and 5th. I would NOT recommend the GSR 4th. I would only partially endorse the GSR 5th...but will say its unnecessary. I would ideally have a B16/USDM ITR/96-97 JDM ITR 4th and 5th...even with the 4.78.
IDGAF about the increased revs on the highway....and neither should you.
4.78 gets my
The shorter 4.78 FD just allowed me to keep it in 3rd.
Obviously, results will vary depending on what the circuit layout is. I'm sure there are tracks that favor a 4.4FD.
But the 4.78 did improve the street driving experience as well. The car felt more torquey and the gear reduction was not overkill.
I had a N3E trans that has the GSR 4th and 5th. I would NOT recommend the GSR 4th. I would only partially endorse the GSR 5th...but will say its unnecessary. I would ideally have a B16/USDM ITR/96-97 JDM ITR 4th and 5th...even with the 4.78.
IDGAF about the increased revs on the highway....and neither should you.
4.78 gets my

Thread Starter
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
I'm talking with someone now about a S4C, think this is what I'll end up with, it's only 10mins away from where I'm at and it's much cheaper than the S80 4.7.
Is the S4C just a straight swap, what are the issues with it being hydraulic if any?
Is the S4C just a straight swap, what are the issues with it being hydraulic if any?
I'm not sure what you mean by 'hydraulic issues'.
It has a proper helical diff, dual carbon synchro on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and nevet misses a beat.
It's about as proper a road race transmission as you can get from the factory.
It has a proper helical diff, dual carbon synchro on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and nevet misses a beat.
It's about as proper a road race transmission as you can get from the factory.
Thread Starter
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
I'm looking forward to see how it performs on the circuit, everyone says the LSD is game changing for circuit racing.
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It just means the clutch is actuated by hydraulics instead of a cable.
Older cars, built before 1992 used cable transmissions.
You'd not be happy if you bought a cable transmission for your application.
Older cars, built before 1992 used cable transmissions.
You'd not be happy if you bought a cable transmission for your application.
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
Thread Starter
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
Anyone know how I can make sure it's a S4C and not a Y21, what's the difference anyway as they both have same gear ratios?
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Buy it from a reputable place. You'd need to make sure that your S4C LSD trans is from a CTR and not a Si/Si-R. The CTR has the fancy synchros and helical diff. The Si-R has a viscous diff, IIRC.
Yes...the LSD makes a huge difference on a track.
Yes...the LSD makes a huge difference on a track.
Thread Starter
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
Their prices are a little bit apart which is making me ask a few questions of the cheaper option. Hopefully we can open it up before purchase to confirm.
Both of them buy surplus direct from Japan. I'll be inspecting it tomorrow along with my trusted mech, will let you know how it goes, hopefully along with some pics.
Appreciate the help guys, cheers!
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The 'fancy synchros' you mention, is that dual synchros or just more robust synchros than that of standard?
Last edited by DeFinitive; Jul 29, 2016 at 05:47 AM.
Thread Starter
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Finally got my hands on a S4C 4.4 Lsd tranny, it's installed and running good.
I've also got my hands on a type r shift linkage with an option to buy, is it worth it, will it fit and will there be a noticeable difference when shifting?
I've also got my hands on a type r shift linkage with an option to buy, is it worth it, will it fit and will there be a noticeable difference when shifting?
Thread Starter
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
for a 2000 civic, the integra linkage is a huge upgrade. Any DC integra is functionally the same. JDM Type R's have a zinc plated linkage and chrome shifter.
You may need to clearance the DC's link stabilizer near the catalyst. Or use an EM1 stabilizer with DC shifter rod and shifter.
You may need to clearance the DC's link stabilizer near the catalyst. Or use an EM1 stabilizer with DC shifter rod and shifter.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angeles City, Philippines
for a 2000 civic, the integra linkage is a huge upgrade. Any DC integra is functionally the same. JDM Type R's have a zinc plated linkage and chrome shifter.
You may need to clearance the DC's link stabilizer near the catalyst. Or use an EM1 stabilizer with DC shifter rod and shifter.
You may need to clearance the DC's link stabilizer near the catalyst. Or use an EM1 stabilizer with DC shifter rod and shifter.
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