Before you post that I shouldn't use one because it's dirty oil, I'm aware of that. I have one on my car right now that runs strictly to a T with my stock oil pressure sensor and an oil pressure gauge. My turbo is fed from oil directly from the stock location of the oil pressure switch with an inline filter.

The mechanic that did the work on my car for the past 4 years was a pretty shady person, so I'm trying to figure out if what he told me was the truth or BS. When I dropped the car off years ago, I gave him all brand new OEM genuine Honda belts and when I finally received the car, he had installed Napa and Dayco belts on there. His excuse was that the OEM belts wouldn't fit because of the Z10 fitting with the 90 degree 1/8" NPT to -3 AN adapter on there. Does this make any sense at all? I'd like to replace these belts with Honda belts, since my AC compressor needs to be replaced anyway, but before I do that I need to be sure there won't be a problem.

Should I risk putting the OEM belts back on with this Z10 fitting the way it is or get rid of it and go back to the dual T setup I had before? I'm tempted to get an oil filter sandwich plate for the gauges, because I like having a more direct oil feed path to the turbo. The attached picture isn't mine, by the way.

 

I have been using them for years... primarily for LS/Vtec applications and for oil pressure sending units. Never an issue.

 

Yea I dont see how a honda brand would be any different fitment wise then a parts store belt

 

He used different size belts because of the fitting. I'm not disputing that NAPA or other belts are perfectly functional, but after this guy used numerous other parts I had given him to be installed on my car, that ended up on other customers' cars without my permission, I'm just trying to find out if he was being truthful about the clearance issue with the Z10 adapter. Others have had similar experiences:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...4/#post7785443

 

Using the Z10 oil pump fitting will reduce the adjustment range/travel of the alternator, and thus, belt selection is very critical. Usually, I have used a stock sized belt or 5-10mm longer belt and actually "walk" it onto the pulley grooves. The A/C and P/S belts will not be affected, so if the mechanic said that these belts wouldn't work because of the fitting, this is simply untrue.

 

reading that thread the z10 fitting kinda sounds like a hassle. I run a GE sandwich plate which feeds my turbo and oil pressure sensor filtered oil.. just a thought good luck

and your mechanic should have given your parts back and charged you for the new parts, if they didnt work they still belong to you. This is why I do my own work I dont trust people

 

X2 if you want it done right you gotta do it yourself. I've been screwed so many times by shops. I do everything possible myself including tuning (got tired of paying for crap tunes) unless it requires specific very expensive tools like decking a block of cylinder head, ect..

 

That mechanic should have done a lot of things. Most importantly not leave my car unfinished for 4 years and make me spend over $4000 in legal fees. There's something wrong with him. My perfect car was returned scratched and the work he did was poor.

I'm looking into different brands of sandwich plates. I consistently hear that GE is the best, but I have a couple of questions. When you tighten the GE on, there's no way to point the 1/8" NPT hole in the direction you want, is there? You just torque it until it stops, which might be the opposite direction I want. Since I don't need filtered oil, I'm looking at the other style that has the base plate separate from the center. You "aim" the base plate where you want, then torque the center down.

My second question is if it's necessary to use Loctite to prevent the sandwich plate from backing out during oil changes. I found an old post from a Golden Eagle rep when they were introduced which stated they like to use Loctite to keep it in place.

 

the GE plate can be clocked in any direction you want, theres a bolt that holds it tight, so clock it then tighten the bolt, I didnt use any locktite I haven't had a single problem with it. If you dont need filtered oil there are definetly alot of cheaper options. I use it to feed my turbo so i prefered filtered oil.

my second choice would be this: Depo Racing Oil Sandwich Adapter

 

You really dont have to crank it down either. I am using the GE plate for my LSVTEC and it can be turned with a little force but the rubber oring keeps it from leaking.

 

Thanks guys. I ordered a GE sandwich adapter this morning. I'll skip the Loctite, because if I ever decide to get rid of it, I don't want any contamination on the threads. I've heard that they can leak, so I'm looking for torque specs. I called GE, and the person I spoke to didn't seem very knowledgeable. This is what their .pdf instructions say:

"DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. THIS CAN CAUSE IRREVERSABLE [sic] DAMAGE TO THE BLOCK"

LOL, I've read about how the o-ring can become too compressed and leak, but how would this cause irreversible damage to the block? An included torque spec would be nice. Mishimoto says 35 ft/lbs for their adapter.

 

I would go with that then. Honestly just tighten it like you'd tighten your oil filter. Its the same kind of compression oring seal. 35 ft-lbs sounds reasonable.

 

I believe they are referring to the chance of pulling the threads out of the block.
Mine leaked after years, but a replacement o-ring from GE and no problem.