So i know name brand turbo kits like precision, greddy, garret but what turbo kit works best on the d16y8. I plan on vitara building it and eagle rods with sleeves but i cant find anywhere where they sell real good turbo kits for the d16.

Thanks

 

I would look at ebay for a cast manifold, IC, and charge pipes. For the important bits like BOV, WG, and turbo, stick with well known names(garrett, turbosmart, precision, ect...).

 

Thats what i was thinking but i wasnt sure if it was the right thing to do. Do you think i could run an ebay turbo on low psi so i wont stress the turbo much and upgrade the BOV and WG and then the turbo? Besides those things what else would i have to replace? Are ebay psi adjusters good?

 

Theres a bunch of kits for the y8 you must have actively tried to ignore them on the web, or if you dont have they money just get the cheapest parts you can find.

You'll never end up turboing it anyway.

 

goautoworks.com

and stay away from ebay

 

Whats your deal man, i swear you single camers are bunch of butt holes. I posted on the K-series forms for help and everyone there was Professional. Im asking for help because i dont know.

Ive seen kits online on websites i dont even know are trusted. Plus why buy somthing i know nothing about? If someone on here has used a kit and liked it they could tell me here and recommend somthing they know is good from experience. If no one replies ill take a shot in the dark and hope for the best. I said i knew name brand kits but i want to know what other people have tried.

 

Thanks man ill look into it. If i couldnt find a decent kit with good reviews i was going to go ebay but i really didn't want to.

 

GO-AUTOWORKS Turbo Kits Honda Civic Acura Integra D16 B16 B18

You could probably piece a turbo kit together for a little cheaper, but this is a good starter basic kit. You still need fuel pump, injectors, and a good tune. Look into hondata s300 or Neptune rtp and find a good tuner.

You never did state your goals for the car or how much power you're looking to make so I'm kinda shooting in the dark here. Most of you questions can be answered by reading the FAQ sticky at the top btw. Good luck man.

 

Yea without a power goal this is basically a crapshoot

 

I second goautoworks. Make your life easier and save the hassle of piecing components, especially if this is your first rodeo.

 

x2

Define goals/ scope before soliciting answers.

What are you trying to accomplish?
Daily driven 250whp?
Street/strip car at 400whp?
Auto Cross response monster?

Give us some goals and a 'realistic' budget.

 

Yeah my power goal is set at 300-325. I know i need a fuel system so i was thinking around the 300-400cc injectors, pump is going to be the 325 i believe from summit racing and i was looking into the hondata s300. For tune i know a guy.

The block is going to be a vitara build, probably eagle or skunk2 rods. Does anyone recommend a brand of sleeves? I know ill need sleeves.

 

400 cc wont do it, you always wanna stay a little on the high side with injectors you dont want to max them out anyway.

based on the calc that I used 350 HP requires 615cc or better

I have some very good injectors for sale they are 525cc but those would max out at about 300HP

bandrfittings has really good deals on s300, fuel pump I recommend walbro 255 its worked well for me

 

You absolutely do not need sleeves. Cast Pistons in a sleeved block makes zero sense anyways. Now if your goal was 500+whp then forged Pistons and sleeves makes sense.

 

Oh, well i was thinking it would put too much stress on the block. What if i ran a high compression piston(p29) with around the same power goal? Would i need sleeves then?

 

Alright yeah i thought 400cc would work bit most likely ill go with somthing over 615cc for when i decide to turn it up once in a while.

 

Regardless of what compression ratio you run you don't need to worry about sleeves until your in the 500whp range. What fuel do you plan on using 92-93 octane or E85? Fuel type and power goal will dictate what size injectors you'll need.

 

x2 and I would just do 750s or even 1000cc

 

Where im from there is only 91 octane. And thats what I plan to pump.

So why is it that people say you cant boost on high compression? Or if you do you have to get a good tune. I always thought it was because the block couldnt take it. If i get high compression pistons (p29) and a low boost tune to stay around the 300hp would that be fine? Or would i have to go low compression?

 

Alright 1000cc it is just to keep it safe. Ill be getting a 350lpm fuel pump and an aem high capacity fuel rail. Anything else i need?

 

Wait sorry stupid question. You can boost on high compression because the fuel wont burn fast enough and will run lean.

 

No.....That's not why. Try that again

 

As someone mentioned above, you don't really need sleeves, and it's a waste if you don't have all forged internals. Sleeves also can fail as if there is even a microscopic crack/flaw/imperfection in the metallurgy and it will blow your motor. Sleeving your block will also reduce the cooling capacity around your cylinders.

As far as high compression, that's not a good idea for a turbo car for many reasons. A turbo will generate a lot of heat and a high compression motor generates a lot of heat as well; so your just asking for detonation issues and burnt valves; and altering your timing is not the way to get around this. Also, a high compression motor will have a different rod ratio which will not be ideal for turbo application. The only high comp Honda motor that seems to fare well w/ turbo is the S2000 and even that motor has its limits.

Parting out a turbo kit will save money, but I'd say a get a complete kit instead so you know all the components work well together... If this is your first build, its a crap shoot to try and get everything separately... And don't buy any Ebay **** -it's all garbage. I saw a mention of an ebay parts - dont do it. There is no such thing as 'not important' parts when it comes to forced induction. BOV's have seals that fail, wastegates have springs that fail, intercoolers have damaged fins, etc. - buy new stuff, not ebay stuff! If you're gonna go FI, take the time to do it right. Trust me I've owned/built a lot of FI cars and i learned a lot on each one. Also, what are your plans for your head? Your stock valvetrain will not handle the heat well for long. Look into an oil cooler also.

 

"high compression" is a relative term, in the 90's people would run "low compresion pistons" meaning under 10:1 generally 8-9:1
correct me if im wrong but I believe vitara pistons leave you somewhere around 9.5:1

that is no longer a requirement or something to be desired at all, due to advancements in tunning

I would say 10:1 is the norm for boosted motors, high compression can be done say 11:1 or 12:1 but it starts to get complicated as your higher compression will technically be more prone to detonation so knock resistant fuel etc must be used.

10:1 is fine for pump gas I would not recommend going lower then that, the somewhat "higher" compression gives you better responsiveness when not in boost, with that said i dont consider anything under 10.5:1 "high compression"

 

Okay so im reading about lambda, and i think i understand 1 lambda is 14.7:1 cr right? So is that 1 lambda safe to run or is does looking at lambda and AFRs different or am i over thinking this?

Im looking through s300 hondata tuning software and i saw that it had lambda 14.7:1 on a stock p28 base map. But i know (since im running a d16y8) the compression ratio is a 9.6:1 (i think, correct me if wrong) and that means .65 lambda. Are you supposed to run 1 lambda or is it just a smaller number to measure compression? I know 14.7:1 is a really high compression ratio but its set on lambda on the tuning software.