I just finished doing some upgrades in my 1990 civic hatchback.

Swapped the b1 head and cam for a freshly rebuilt B2 head and D16A6 cam, TD-01 was swapped to a NEW TD-02 distributor, grabbed an Si intake, throttle body, new EACV, new Fast Idle Solenoid, new TPS, new spark plugs, made a distributor jumper with plugs from the base/DX harness and the EX/SI harness, changed from a PM9 to a PM6 ecu, fuel injectors from a 1998 civic ex which each have 12 ohms resistance, replaced ALL coolant hoses, and wired everything in for a MPFI swap.

Brown #1 injector to a1
Red#2 to a3,
Blue #3 to a5,
And yellow #4 to a7.

Moved prance c1 to empty b10,
Cut red/white wire from b12 and moved white c1 to b12,

Added blue/yellow wire to injector jumper and ran to c1
Added blue/green and ran to c2

Coat wouldn't start, came up code 15, ignition output signal, and code 20, electrical load detector.

Read that purge cutoff is wired differently, and have to ground black and yellow, so I cut and ground black/yellow to the firewall next to the cutoff.

I then checked the jumper harness and realized the 2 whites were mixed up.

Car still won't start, but there are now no codes on the ecu. Checked the timing, flipped the rotor in the distributor TWICE, I'm kinda lost. This is my daily driver

 

How are the injectors wired in exactly?

 

Injector 1 brown wire directly to a1, injector 2 red wire directly to a3, injector 3 blue wire directly to a5, and injector 4 yellow wire directly to a7. All 4 yellow/black wires are spliced into the yellow/black wire from A15 that powers the main relay as well.

 

You haven't stated up above that you flipped the wires at the TPS connector, did you do that? I believe it's the outer wires that get flipped.

 

Yes. I flipped the wires and calibrated it. It runs .4V closed, and 4.25V WOT. That's as far as I can adjust it.

 

I also swapped the coil and igniter from my DPFI, seeing as they worked when I pulled the TD-01 off the engine, still won't run.

 

Guess it's time to start verifying the basic fuel/spark/compression. Can you visually confirm that you have spark going through to each spark plug wire? Then verify each injector is spraying? Firing order? I'd start there since it won't cost you anything to check those. Also mechanical timing. Which cam gear are you using by the way?

Long shot but a friend had done this before, valve lash is to spec? Friend had over tightened them causing them to never seat (stuck open, zero compression).

 

I'm using the gear that was on the A6 cam. Comparing them Side by side, the timing marks are identical in relation to the key for the shaft.

 

Cam gear will be a separate issue then for later. Should still run with everything else being done properly.

 

I don't have the tools to do compression test. But I'll double check for spark and fuel.

 

I have fuel. No spark. Absolutely no power to any of the wires in the distributor...

 

No spark. There is power to the coil, there is power to the igniter, but there is nothing coming out of the coil. I have one NEW coil, and one that I pulled from my TD-01 distributed that was running

 

Which is it "Absolutely no power to any of the wires in the distributor" or "There is power to the coil, there is power to the igniter"?????

 

There IS power. Forgot momentarily that all 7 wires on the large plug are signal output, and the coil and igniter both get power from the blue and black/yellow wires on the small plug. Pretty sure now that both my old coil and my new coil got fried, as there is power to both igniter and coil, but no spark:

 

I just replaced the igniter AND the coil with BRAND NEW units, still no spark.

 

Have you got power at IGP1&2 at the ECU with ign. in run AND start positions? 94

 

Which pins are IGP1&2?

 

Cause I know the ecu gets power, because the light flashes when I turn the key on and again when I turn it off. I also had two codes when I first finished the swap. Nothing has changed on the ecu end since I first plugged it in except that I solved the issues causing the two codes

 

If you're talking about A13 and A15, both have power in on and in start.

 

Originally had a code 15, switched the white wires, no code. Decided to try and switch them back, now it starts, but it idles between 2500 and 3000 rpm, and sounds like crap

 

Verify mechanical timing yet?

 

When I put the belt on, the crank pulley timing mark was lined up with the timing tab on the timing cover, and the cam gear marks were lined up with the flat surface of the head with "up" pointed up. So only reason I can fine for it being off is if there was too much slack in the belt to line up perfectly with both gears but not enough to pull to the next tooth before installing the tensioner. But I'll double check

 

Mechanical timing is spot on. All of the marks line up perfectly. TDC on crank pulley lines up, timing marks are perfectly aligned with the head, and the "up" is up

 

So I unplugged the EACV and let the car re-learn idle, shut off the ignition, pulled the battery +, plugged in EACV, and started the car. Ran at 3000 for a few seconds then dropped back to 1500, and fluctuated from there to 3000 until I hit the gas, then it bogged to 1000 and stayed there. But when I hit the gas, it Boggs down before revving, then when the engine slows down it just dies.

 

Now is a good time to consider correcting for the difference in mechanical timing. How are you setting ignition timing btw?