98 accord V6. New fuel pump, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil. I've got a no start and no combustion and no fuel being delivered to cylinders. I can get fuel to the pulsation damper . And the car has never started while I've been testing until I literally primed each cylinder with gasoline by removing the front four plugs just to test... fired off like a champ until the fuel was burned up. if we assume that everything upstream, behind the pole station damper that is, A-Ok. now where should I look? The Helms manual says in the flowchart testing to test the fuel pressure regulator that you need to have the car running first. I need somewhere to look and quickly if anyone reads this. Thanks fellas and ladies! if I can get this car fixed I'll make the next day "no hat day "!

 

I am OP. Sorry, not trying to bump. Was trying to keep it simple but elaboration might help . I feel like this is probably the culmination of a problem that started sometime ago where I would get the effect of no spark or no fuel between 50 and 60 mph the car would just's bogged down for a second or two stumble and stutter and sometimes you could pump the gas and usually push it through it and passed 60 mph and be okay. the mph range of this problem gradually began to expand... occurring between 45 and 60, 35 etc, course before long I was never getting past 35 or 40 because the problem was showing up to soon but in the beginning you could push through it so to speak. Hope that helps. And the spelling and punctuation and grammarmight appear poor because I am dictating to my phone.Please forgive.

 

It may be helpful if you also include some info about your car like Year, Model, mileage, related maintenance records.


Sounds like you have a typical crank but no start problem with the fuel not being able to get to the cylinders.


Watch the youtube clip here (hopefully you understand English ok) and you should be able to nail down where the problem is.


Basically, you first check and see whether your fuel pump is working and work your way up the line. I think Honda has the access panel in the trunk. If you can't hear the fuel pump from the filler cap, you should be able to hear it after opening the access panel.

 

First thing is to listen and look, turn the ign. on to run, [not all the way to start] listen for the fuel pump priming and the CEL turning on, the pump will prime for a few sec, and then stop, at the same time the CEL will turn off.

if the above is not happening the thing to do is test for voltage at the fuel injectors, [wire that is the same color at each injector] they should have 12V+ when ign. switch is in both the run and start positions. 94

 

How often do all six injectors fail completely and at once? That is what seems mysterious to me because I'm getting fuel at the pulsation damper. first guy should probably go back and actually read the post. thanks for the ignition pointer!

 

I understand you installed a new fuel pump, but you have no proof (at least you are not showing any here) that the pump is in working order. As far as I concern, the fuel you see at the pulsation damper could be the old fuel. Fuel system must be under certain pressure (psi) for it to work so just because you have fuel at the fuel rail or at the pulsation damper, that doesn't mean your pump is working. Your fuel pump is only working when it can create the required pressure to the fuel system. Hence, that is why those Pro (if you watch the youtube clip) hooked up the pressure gauge to test it. That is the only way you know for sure.


Those guys are pro so every step they do has a purpose behind it.
FCM has a good point. Great catch!


You are very close, and I can feel it.


Good luck!

 

The main relay has two relays in it, one controls the fuel pump and another controls the injectors, it's possible for the fuel pump to work but the injectors don't.

 

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Oh, REEEALLY?!!! Good to know! I knew it controlled the fuel pump in part but I did not know there was any injector controls involved in the main relay. Thanks!

 

Ditto the above^^^.

OP, I can't help if you will not answer the questions I ask, if the injector relay is not working then all the injectors will not work, check for power at the injectors. 94

 

Apologies to FCM, but no question was asked.

 

Those questions, or maybe I should have been more clear that I wanted you to answer if any of the above WAS happening. 94

 

Scenario: I removed the pressure regulator and turned the key at least 15 times. Got tons of fuel flow coming out of that threaded port. I did notice that every turn of the key to position number two did not make the fuel pump run. And of course as you would expect I never hear the pitch of the sound change as it pressurized because it was actually not pressurizing because I removed the regulator.
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Facts/observations: When I turn the key to position one of course I get the Christmas tree on the dash. After I turn the key to position two and the fuel pump either runs or does not run in either case none of the dummy lights go out.
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Am I correct in the following: Fuel flows into the Injun compartment at the pole station damper and then onto the front fuel rail and then around to the back fuel rail where the pressure regulator is located at the end of said fuel rail?
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And I realized I never said it because they were never there...I have no CEL light on when it was last running .
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and I've never had any combustion unless I primedthe cylinders and I would know because I'm working in a closed one car garage

 

To answer a question the CL does not turn off after prime cycle.

 

In other words, it's possible for the main relay to be bad. I didn't just tell you that for nothing. Test it.

 

Awesome! Thx. Totally totally understand your point and I will test. The curiosity for me is that I have never gotten the car to combust until I primed the cylinders manually by spark plug removal even though I have gotten fuel to pour out where the regulator goes in.... and keeping in mind that it actually does prime about 75% of the time. so what you mean is test pgm-fi main relay not because of the fuel pump ~ necessarily~ but because the injectors may not be running at all? Or both.
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Can You answer my question about the direction of the fuel flow enters the engine compartment?
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Stay tuned: Bench testing the main relay with wires and a battery and a meter now. Via the Helms manual. I think it is somewhat flawed because the easiest test I would believe is to test the relay first but it as at the end of the procedure instead of at the beginning. They want you to test everything else internal to the car for shorts and open circuits first to determine if the problem is with the relay. Johnny Shadetree might find it easier to test his relay first. I'll be back here in a few minutes to post results. Thanks to everyone again .

 

I just double tested the main relay on the bench with two different voltmeters and it tests out okay.

 

All fuses in pgmfi test procedure good. Now I'm going backto the start to check for shorts open circuits.

 

Pull the ecu and open up both covers and check for any burned spots inside. It's possible it burned up.

 

Check for power at the injectors, [lead that is the same color at each injector] with ign. switch in the run AND start positions.

If good, check for ground pulse at injectors, use node light or LED type test light.

If no ground pulse, check for power to IGP1&2 at ECU with ign. switch in both the run AND start position.

Have you tried pulling trouble codes, with the CEL not going out after priming, tells me there is a problem with the ECU. 94

 

No ecu code when last running...And the accel/fuel/ign prob was around a little at first and and then mOre and more prominent at lower speeds too. Read second post up top...I think this the evolution of what I was experiencing in that post.

 

IGP 1& 2... I don't know that terminology . Please help.

 

Sorry so long, guys. Had to take an extended break. Voltage test on all six injectors in key positions 2and 3 checks out okay. Up next checking control module for Burns or scorching and revisiting a proper fuel pressure test.

 

I cracked open ECU and it checks out visually compared to any other PCB that I have ever seen/repaired. There is one section of components inside (about 1.5"x1.5") where the sprayed on adhesive/ coating has yellowed but other than that, nothing.

 

I will ask again, please. I cannot find IGP1 and IGP2. I have the OEM manuals but I cannot find the pin out. Help help help!